Oliver Thomas took on the mantle of head chef here in the wake of Eyck Zimmer's departure in 2008. It can't have been easy - Zimmer won multiple awards while in Salford, among them National Chef of the Year - but Thomas wisely marked his appointment by shifting the menu firmly into traditional British territory. So, meat-heavy dishes, such as braised pig's cheek and calf's liver, jostle for space alongside Dover sole and Scottish salmon.
There's also an outstanding British cheese selection and a filling brunch menu. Whether Thomas's unconventional career path (as a butcher, a baker and a miner) has anything to do with his approach is anyone's guess, but he is at least unafraid of shaking things up at this riverside eaterie.