Back in the 1980s, chef Douglas Rodriguez started the nouveau Cuban craze in Miami and then moved to New York, where he became a huge star. After returning to Miami, he opened Ola. The trendy minimalist decor feels dated, but the food is sophisticated and imaginative. Ceviche is a forte: the escolar whitefish with blood orange is sublime; lobster with lime sorbet, and Ecuadorean shrimp with popcorn, are also memorable. Dishes like crackling roast pork with black beans and rice remind smug foodies that Miami, not Manhattan, was first in the nuevo Latino scene. And the deconstructed key lime pie (served with meringue and vanilla bean ice-cream) puts the original in the shade. Be warned: you'll need to knock back a few watermelon mojitos to digest the Manhattan-style bill.