At Hammam della Rosa you follow a circuit of varying temperatures, rooms and plunge pools. You start off relaxing in the tepidarium, a warm, mosaic-panelled room, before hitting the moist 45° heat of the caldarium. Stretch out on the beds, and you'll be vigorously scrubbed from head to toe (and then some). After a dip in the frigidarium, you'll be plied with sweets, tea and a tenminute massage. Heaven? Awfully close.