For years, Naples lacked a proper contemporary art gallery - but 2005 saw the opening of two large-scale, publicly funded galleries, PAN and MADRe. The palazzo that houses this pleasant, well-appointed museum was completely overhauled by Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza, who created a main display space on the ground floor and three upper floors of smaller connecting rooms.
Granted, it's not Guggenheim Bilbao or Tate Modern, but it is a highly functional space. The first floor hosts site-specific installations by international artists such as Jeff Koons and Richard Serra; highlights include a couple of Joseph Kosuth's cryptic neon signs, Anish Kapoor's marvellously illusory blue space and Rebecca Horn's mirrored skulls. Neapolitan in exile Francesco Clemente also returned to fresco two rooms in their entirety. The subject is Naples itself, and the superstitions that make the city tick. Staff are numerous and knowledgeable, though not all speak English.
The upper floors are given over to temporary exhibitions; artists have included Jannis Kounellis (featuring his notorious dozen live horses), Rachel Whiteread and Robert Rauschenberg. There's also a bar and restaurant, where a visit can be combined with a lively aperitif.