Heirloom chicken “Kiev” at Picholine Terrance Brennan’s riff on the dinner party classic replaces the usual melted-herb-butter surprise in the center with a much more oligarchworthy molten foie gras. 35 W 64th St between Broadway and Central Park West (212-724-8585). Part of the $85 prix fixe.

Stuffed grape leaves at Bereket

Photograph: Jodie Love

Stuffed grape leaves at Bereket Fragrant, moist, and studded with pine nuts and currants, these stout little delicacies are best consumed five at a time. Available 24 hours a day, they also function as the ideal antidote to a 3am bellyful of LES booze. 187 E Houston St at Orchard St (212-475-7700). $5 for a plate.

Chopped liver at Sammy’s Roumanian Steakhouse Organ meat! Yum! Ditch the queasiness before dining at this Lower East Side Jewish relic, where the chopped liver is both tasty and a spectacle: Tableside, a waiter mashes chicken livers with schmaltz (rendered chicken fat), fried onions and bits of radish. 157 Chrystie St at Delancey St (212-673-0330). $9.95.

Sheep’s ricotta gnudi at the Spotted Pig While New York’s first London-style gastropub makes a very fine burger, it’s chef April Bloomfield’s feather-pillow-light gnudi that you need. The plump, sage-butter-slicked gumdrops are filled with ricotta—it’s the Pig’s most sought-after dish. 314 W 11th St at Greenwich St (212-620-0393). $13.

Cassoulet at La Luncheonette The way they’ve been doing it in Toulouse, France, for centuries works equally well in Chelsea. This version adds chunks of tender braised lamb, leg of duck confit and garlic pork sausage in a cassole (earthenware crockery pot) of slow-cooked white beans. 130 Tenth Ave at 19th St (212-675-0342). $21.50.

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