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Like its buzzword brethren organic and sustainable, green is a slippery term. As it applies to restaurants and bars, greenness implies approaching things like energy usage and selecting food items with the intention of preserving resources. Practically, it can mean anything from major infrastructure changes—like implementing “graywater” systems, a technique that recycles dishwater for use in irrigation—to simply using energy-efficient, money-saving light bulbs. According to Michael Oshman, the founder of the Green Restaurant Association, the restaurant and bar industries guzzle more than a third of the energy used in the national retail sector. Though it’s unlikely that a place can be 100 percent green, businesses can take meaningful steps in that direction. Scores of NYC restaurants—Le Pain Quotidien, Habana Outpost, Village Pourhouse and others—are adopting earth-friendly practices. We look behind the scenes at the new eco-conscious bar Oulu (170 North 4th St between Bedford and Driggs Aves, Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-233-1340), named for a city in Finland, to see what it means to go (almost) green in Gotham.
The lights
The filament bulbs, chosen for their warm light, are incandescent (i.e., not energy-efficient). “I know they’ve made advances in trying to improve the LEDs [bulbs that emit more light using less energy], and create a more realistic glow, but they just don’t come close to incandescents,” says Oulu’s owner Anthony Pace. The bulbs are dimmed to an eighth of their capacity, an energy-saving measure that is comparable to using an LED bulb, and all of Oulu’s energy is culled from Con-Edison’s wind-power program, which unlike traditional electricity, doesn’t come from fossil fuels.
The walls
Oulu’s walls, built from 100 percent recycled Sheetrock salvaged from Pennsylvania factories, are painted with a milk-based pigment that is low in volatile organic compounds (VOC), toxic gases that pollute groundwater, air quality and soil. Overexposure to VOCs, which are alarmingly abundant in standard paints and cleaning supplies, can cause serious respiratory problems. Dennie and Pace eliminated any lingering fumes following construction via a two-week process called a “flush-out,” in which air-conditioning units sucked up the pollutants prior to opening.
The facade
Oulu’s “living wall” comprises 225 square feet of potted succulents. In addition to the wall’s insulating properties, which help regulate heating and cooling costs, the plants generate enough oxygen to keep 46 people breathing per year. Though the large garage door provides ventilation and a natural light source, the thick, tempered glass isn’t hardy enough to help retain heat during the winter. Not so green. “I wanted to use a double-pane glass for a higher energy-saving property, but it was outside our budget,” says Evangeline Dennie, the LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)-accredited architect that helped conceptualize the design.
The bar
The bar top (and all of the wood used in the space) is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)—an organization that monitors tree harvesting and ensures that the timber comes from sustainable sources. “They handpick each tree so that the forest can regenerate,” explains Dennie. The front of the bar is composed of recyclable mica, which can be described as quasi-green, according to Dennie. “Mica is a natural material,” she says. “But the resin [the liquid used to bind the mica panels], I don’t think that’s very green.” Behind the bar, some spirits like 360 Vodka, packaged in a bottle made from 85 percent recycled glass, espouse the green principle. Beers chill in an energy-efficient refrigerator certified by the government-regulated program, Energy Star.
Feel like indulging your inner tree hugger? The B.R. Guest group recently announced green initiatives at properties like Fiamma (206 Spring St between Sixth Ave and Sullivan St, 212-653-0100) and Vento (675 Hudson St between 13th and 14th Sts, 212-699-2400) to name a few. Clinton Street Baking Company’s soon-to-open project, Community Food & Juice (2893 Broadway between 112th and 113th Sts, no phone yet), promises a sustainable experience, as does Greenhouse (539 W 21st St between Tenth and Eleventh Aves, no phone yet), owner “Jon B’s” West Chelsea nightclub set to open this December.