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  • Features

    Time Out New York / Issue 639 : Dec 27, 2007–Jan 2, 2008
    100 best food and drink

    The art of the sandwich

    We take apart a masterpiece of meatless-meal construction.

    By Joshua M. Bernstein

    The chef: Jorge Pineda
    The dish: Cajun seitan sandwich, $13 (Candle Café, 1307 Third Ave at 75th St; 212-472-0970)

    1. Toasted focaccia
    A local small-batch baker (anonymous, per Chef Pineda) manufactures “organic, special-order focaccia from unbleached flour, yeast and water—skipping egg and milk, which other organic companies use. Our bread is flavorful and high in protein,” and it stays firm in the face of soggy-making ingredients.

    2. Steamed greens
    “I don’t use vegetables that aren’t organic,” says Chef Pinada, who favors a “locally grown combination of kale, red chard and collard greens, which are high in nutrients. I quickly steam them, so they’re not overcooked. They add color and are good for you, too.”

    3. Caramelized onions
    The chef starts with “Spanish white onions, which are high in vitamin C and naturally sweet. I cook the onions with a little salt over low heat for about 30 to 40 minutes, giving them a nice, dark caramelization. This adds a sweetness that’s well matched to the chili aioli.”

    4. Spicy pan-seared seitan
    Chef Pineda acquires his meatlike wheat gluten from an artisan (his source is secret) who crafts “tender seitan that’s not overwhelmingly salty. It’s marinated for several hours in a mixture of paprika, rosemary, thyme, chili powder, apple-cider vinegar and olive oil, before being coated in unbleached flour and quickly fried in olive oil.”

    5. Avocado
    Creaminess comes into play with several thin slices of this “almost nutritionally complete food that contains lots of vitamin A,” says Chef Pineda, who favors Hass avocados. “They adds layers of richness, which makes the sandwich almost melt in your mouth.”

    6. Ancho-chili aloil
    Instead of overpowering everything else with tongue-singeing heat, “the aioli has a mild spiciness. The ancho is a more flavorful—not fiery—chili.” Plus, the aioli is vegan-friendly: “It’s made with blended tofu, soy milk and apple-cider vinegar. It’s served on the side, so you control how much you want on the sandwich.”

    7. Coleslaw
    “Unlike other restaurants that only make coleslaw once a week, we do it fresh every day, keeping it incredibly crispy,” Pineda says of the savory side, which is concocted from green cabbage, carrots, onions, and garlic mixed with red-wine vinegar, sweet agave nectar, sea salt, black pepper, lemon juice and egg-free “vegannaise.”

    Download a printable checklist of all 100 selections.



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