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Published on 5/14/08
Published on 5/14/08
Video
Few foodies would argue with the refined dishes our editors picked as the city’s best—but what about an admitted meat-and-potatoes hard hat? When we take Brooklyn-born-and-bred ironworker Donnie Marquez to three fancy restaurants he’s never been to, he has a handshake for every busboy we see (he used to be one himself), charms a beer or two out of each bartender we encounter and seems completely unintimidated by his task. He’s also “fucking starving.”
Our first stop is Jean Georges (1 Central Park West at 60th St, 212-299-3900), where we’re served vacherin ($9)— a complicated sculpture of meringue, Concord-grape sorbet, toasted-almond ice cream, tahini, dehydrated grapes, shiso gel, citrus-candied almonds and shiso leaves, and fresh grapes. Donnie swipes a bite during the presentation, and correctly identifies a “kinda tea flavor” that turns out to be essence of bergamot. Once the staff is out of earshot, Donnie digs in for real, then looks pensive. “I coulda did without the almonds. Too crunchy,” he offers. Also, the sorbet “tastes like icicles. A little too icy.” Donnie ultimately gives the dish a 7 out of 10, saying he might pay $8, “or $10 if I was really trying to impress a girl.”
WHEN TO GO: “It’s really elegant; I’d definitely bring my girlfriend here for dinner,” says Donnie. “She has all these pretty dresses she could wear to this place.”
We head across the street to Masa (10 Columbus Circle at Eighth Ave, 212-823-9800), where Donnie is served an Echigo ($11)—“Beer gets a 10”— and a toro caviar roll ($120), which is wrapped in avocado and topped with black caviar. He wolfs down the first piece before the soy sauce arrives—but turns out to actually just like it better au naturel; the soy sauce, he says, “takes away” from the flavor. Compared with his usual California rolls, “it’s really, really good—a solid 8.5.”
WHEN TO GO: “It’s a little uptight,” opines Donnie.“I guess sushi brings out that type of person. I’d come here for a quiet night out—maybe a double date.”
Finally, Momofuku Ssäm Bar (207 Second Ave at 13th St, 212-254-3500) serves us Santa Barbara sea urchin with warm tapioca pearls, shrimp crackers, yuzu whipped tofu, furikake and sel gris ($16). He’s not into it but soldiers on for the sake of “the little jellies,” which are tasty. Ultimately, however, he can’t bring himself to finish the frothy dish—or even to rate it. “I don’t care how cool your place is…,” Donnie says, his skepticism unswayed by Momofuku’s hipness factor. He looks enviously at a fellow diner’s clay pot of ribs. Lucky him: We also suggested (from our top ten) pork-belly sandwiches with hoisin, cucumbers and scallions ($9 for two). After ripping out the “pickles,” a step that Donnie recommends not only to fellow diners but also to the amused manager, Donnie proclaims the dish the best of the night: a 9. “That shit was slammin’!” he shouts, and, in celebration, orders another beer.
WHEN TO GO: “This is more of a hipster place, where you can sit back and relax,” says Donnie. “I like that you can wear jeans and get comfortable. I’d definitely take my boys here. Plus, it’s so loud that no one can listen in on your conversation.”
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