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  • Features

    Time Out New York / Issue 645 : Feb 6–12, 2008
    Ft. Greene

    Food & drink

    A Bistro
    Abdul Gueye, a former sous chef at Aureole, puts a Senegalese twist on the usual bistro menu: Roasted salmon comes with sweet-potato gnocchi in a peanut sauce; crab cakes are accompanied by pineapple chunks. 154 Carlton Ave between Myrtle and Willoughby Aves (718-855-9455). Tue–Fri noon–10pm; Sat, Sun noon–10pm.

    Café Lafayette
    With fewer than 30 seats, this café is kind of a secret that locals like to keep to themselves—in order to have a better chance of scoring one of the red booths in which to enjoy the excellent bistro fare. 99 South Portland Ave at Fulton St (718-858-6821). Mon–Thu noon–11pm; Fri noon–midnight; Sat, Sun 10:30am–4pm, 5pm–midnight.

    Cake Man Raven Confectionary
    What Rebecca Charles is to the lobster roll, Raven Patrick De’Sean Dennis III is to red velvet cake. The baker helped popularize the crimson confection, a chocolate cake dyed a brilliant red, layered and glazed with a starkly white icing. Slices are available at the tiny retail shop along with a de rigueur selection of cupcakes; whole cakes can be special-ordered. 708 Fulton St at Hanson Pl (718-797-2598). Daily 9am–10pm.

    Chez Oskar
    Over on this mellow corner, a peach-slice moon spills its glow over glasses of rosé, bowls of moules and leafy salades vertes. Inside, a trio plucks out a French-movie soundtrack to back the bustle of a neighborhood bistro in full swing. The dining room features a cheerful hodgepodge of jazzy café-society paintings and potted plants reflected in big mirrors. 211 DeKalb Ave at Adelphi St (718-852-6250). Mon–Thu, Sun 11am–midnight; Fri, Sat 11am–1am.


    Frank’s Cocktail Lounge

    Frank’s Cocktail Lounge
    Like the nabe itself, this joint is a pleasant mix of old and new Brooklyn. You’ll often find fedora-wearing gentlemen of a certain age sharing the bar with young hipsters sporting complicated facial hair. The look is well-worn, the mood is warm, and after-church crowd on Sundays is adorable. 660 Fulton St at South Elliott Pl (718-625-9339). Mon–Thu, Sun 5pm–2am; Fri, Sat 4pm–4am.

    Habana Outpost
    This indoor-outdoor restaurant is run on solar power and uses environmentally friendly, biodegradable materials. Green designer Atom Cianfarani helped create the multipurpose space, which on weekends also hosts an outdoor market selling clothes, accessories and antiques, and featuring children’s activities and DJs. If you down too many fried plantains, you can hop on a stationary bike and mix your own margarita in the human-powered blender. 757 Fulton St at South Portland Ave (718-858-9500). Closed for winter. Reopens Apr 22.

    Ici
    Laurent and Catherine Saillard have created an elegant atmosphere, with white-painted brick walls and a warm-weather patio, at this local favorite. French-accented waitresses deliver simple, straightforward food from a brief, oft-changing menu. 46 DeKalb Ave at Vanderbilt Ave (718-789-2778). Tue–Sun 9am–4pm, 5–10pm.

    i-Shebeen Madiba
    To be New York’s first and only anything is impressive, so respect is due this convivial South African spot, inspired by shebeens (township dining halls) and named for Nelson Mandela’s nickname. Wooden benches and folky art grace the high-ceilinged space; music ranges from Afrobeat to Afropop; the bar pours stiff cocktails; and the menu features curry and stew mainstays as well as offbeat eats like ostrich carpaccio and prawns piri piri. 195 DeKalb Ave between Adelphi St and Carlton Ave (718-855-9190). Mon–Fri 4pm–1am; Sat, Sun 10am–1am.


    Little Piggy (Market)

    Little Piggy (Market)
    Craig Samuel and Ben Grossman of Smoke Joint (see below) also run this Southern country market and café next door to their ’cue house. Pop in for artisanal hams, Anson Mill grits and Greenmarket produce. 64 Lafayette Ave at South Elliott Pl (718-797-0292). Tue–Thu, Sun noon–10pm; Fri, Sat noon–11pm.

    Loulou
    A squat two-story building is home to one of Fort Greene’s bistro pioneers, and the food pleases longtime locals as well as newcomers. The slender room is bathed in soft gold light and has a fireplace at the back; there’s also a year-round garden. Most of the entrées are fish preparations, but bistro purists will be satisfied too, with steak frites and roasted chicken. 222 DeKalb Ave between Adelphi St and Clermont Ave (718-246-0633). Mon, Wed, Thu 5:30–11pm; Fri 5:30pm–midnight; Sat 11am–3pm, 5:30pm–midnight; Sun 11am–3pm, 5:30–10:30pm.

    Luz
    The menu at this Nuevo Latino spot reaches out to more countries than a backpacking Aussie. The prices are reasonable, making this a neighborhood spot where you might actually meet your neighbors. 177 Vanderbilt Ave between Myrtle and Willoughby Aves (718-246-4000). Mon–Wed 5:30–11pm; Thu, Fri 5:30pm–midnight; Sat 10:30am–4pm, 5:30pm–midnight; Sun 10:30am–4pm, 5:30–11pm.

    Maggie Brown
    The menu at this charming Clinton Hill restaurant boasts a roll call of Southern, Latin and Italian dishes. Our recommendation? A half portion of tender braised short ribs, chard and exceptional mashed potatoes—which can be had for $7. 455 Myrtle Ave between Washington and Waverly Aves, Clinton Hill (718-643-7001). Mon–Thu, Sun 10am–11pm; Fri, Sat 10am–midnight.


    Moe’s

    Moe’s
    This isn’t Homer Simpson’s second home. The crowd is an ethnically diverse mix of residents sipping hip drinks like draft Sixpoint Sweet Action and strong Sapphire ’n’ tonics. Furnishings are a patchwork of the greatest retro hits—’60s mod vinyl couches, an ’80s table-style video game —and movies such as Pretty in Pink play above the DJ booth, the source of hip-hop on weekends. 80 Lafayette Ave at South Portland Ave (718-797-9536). Mon–Fri 3pm–2am; Sat noon–4am; Sun noon–3:30am.

    Night of the Cookers
    The “cookers” in question are not the chefs manning the soul-food kitchen—the name is taken from a 1965 Blue Note recording with red-hot trumpeters Freddie Hubbard and Lee Morgan. It should come as no surprise, then, that the place offers jazz with its grits and gravy. Though this is mostly a restaurant, on weekends the sleek wooden bar is thick with flashy revelers who dig the organ-driven combos set up in the front window. 767 Fulton St between South Oxford St and South Portland Ave (718-797-1197). Mon 5–11pm; Tue–Thu noon–11pm; Fri, Sat noon–12:30am; Sun noon–9pm.

    Olea
    Terra-cotta floors and antique mirrors give the dining room its taverna personality, backed by a transporting Mediterranean menu. The presentation is rough and ready, but service is pleasingly snappy. 171 Lafayette Ave at Adelphi St (718-643-7003). Mon–Thu, Sun 10am–11pm; Fri, Sat 10am–4:30pm, 5pm–midnight.

    PequeñaWhile the restaurant is pequeña (“small”), the main dishes are huge. Tacos, enchiladas and quesadillas come with heaping portions of yellow rice, black beans and salsa—there’s so much food, you can barely see the plate. If you’re not starving, most items can be ordered in appetizer portions. 86 South Portland Ave between Fulton St and Lafayette Ave (718-643-0000). Mon–Thu noon–11pm; Fri noon–midnight; Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 10am–11pm.

    Rice
    David Selig and Peter Lawrence’s successful chainlet keeps to the simple stuff: Rice, in infinite varieties, is on offer here. Veggie-rich ratatouille served with a choice of ten kinds of rice (from basic basmati to Bhutanese red) pairs exceptionally well with seasonal juices and ciders pressed on-site (we love the ever-popular warm pear). 166 DeKalb Ave at Cumberland St (718-858-2700). Mon–Thu, Sun noon–11pm; Fri, Sat noon–midnight.

    Rope
    A twisted rope is painted on the front door, and candlelight illuminates exposed-brick walls, wooden tables and chairs, well-placed cushy seats and a hefty couch. The clientele runs the age gamut and shows up for laid-back brewskies and uncomplicated cocktails. 415 Myrtle Ave between Clinton and Vanderbilt Aves, Clinton Hill (718-522-2899). Mon, Sun 5:30pm–2am; Tue–Sat 5:30pm–4am.

    Scopello
    Coral walls, a lengthy bar and high ceilings lend an appropriately Mediterranean feel to complement the stellar Sicilian pickings. You’ll want to try a fish dish, such as fresh, tender, baked sardines scented with bay leaves and lemon and dotted with raisins and pine nuts. If you’re catching a show at BAM, make this your first stop. 63 Lafayette Ave between Fulton St and South Elliott Pl (718-852-1100). Mon–Wed, Sun 5–11pm; Thu 5–11:30pm; Fri, Sat 5pm–midnight.

    67 Burger
    This sleek patty stop has burgers in all the standard variations (beef, turkey, veggie) as well as spicy curly fries, and throwback refreshments like Bosco chocolate soda and RC Cola. 7 Lafayette Ave at Fulton St (718-797-7150). Tue–Thu, Sun 11:30am–10pm; Fri, Sat 11:30am–11pm.

    The Smoke Joint
    What sets apart this spot is its claim of offering “real New York barbecue.” But partners Craig Samuel (Picholine) and Ben Grossman (Picholine, La Grenouille) don’t stray far from the four basic ’cue groups: ribs, chicken, brisket and pork. The space sports a honky-tonk look, with a bright-orange paint job and enclosed porch. 87 South Elliott Pl between Fulton St and Lafayette Ave (718-797-1011). Mon–Thu, Sun noon–10pm; Fri, Sat noon–11pm.

    Thomas Beisl
    Beisl is Austrian slang for “pub,” making this place a step down on the formality scale for Thomas Ferlesch, who was a star chef at the posh Vienna ’79 when he was 23. The comfortable, wainscoted restaurant serves Viennese classics along with traditional bistro food. Reserve ahead; the entire BAM audience seems to march across the street for dinner every night. In warm weather, the garden patio helps accommodate everyone. 25 Lafayette Ave at Ashland Pl (718-222-5800). Mon 3:30pm–midnight; Tue–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 10:30am–midnight.




    Your guide to Ft. Greene
    “ Food & drink
    “ Fort-ified wine
    “Art
    “Art star: Whether you’re a Brooklyn Academy of Music newbie or an old fan, here’s how to get more BAM for your buck.
    “Shopping
    “Sport & spa




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