-
-
Ad Space
(728 x 90)
Published at 4:27pm
Published at 4:25pm
Video
FOOD
While the art world may have turned to other countries for financial support, the food industry has done the opposite. In response to the rising cost of European produce, American importers have started looking to domestic farms for fruits and vegetables that were previously only available abroad. For example, puntarella—a variety of chicory that was formerly exclusive to Italy—is now grown in California, giving importers a break on the prohibitively strong euro. Reinforcing this trend of thrifty localism is the cost of gas: “We’re not only seeing an increase in price on products but also in the expense of getting it to us,” says Tom Valenti, owner and head chef of Upper West Side restaurant Ouest. “It’s getting increasingly difficult to not pass it on to the customer.”
Chefs are unlikely to stop splurging on specialty items any time soon, though. “Imported olive oil, cheeses—that’s where we’re still relying on overseas markets,” says Valenti. “You just can’t replace Reggiano Parmesan, period. So that’s where we buck up and spend the money.” Beatrice Ughi, co-owner of Gustiamo, an Italian specialty-foods importer that sells to restaurants and individuals, says that her company is cutting profit margins as much as possible to prevent raising prices, but if the dollar continues to weaken she’ll have to—or risk going out of business. It seems that the Diesel-sporting New Yorker may get priced out of his taste for French charcuterie, too.
As for whether locals will dine out less in a recession, Valenti isn’t worried. “There’s something to say about seeking out comfort when times are tough. That’s what we try to serve up here.”
RETAIL | ART | ENTERTAINMENT
BACK TO INTRODUCTION
Additional reporting by Daniel Gritzer
