Published at 5:14pm
Published on 9/5/08
Own This City
Video
Bicyclists, in-line skaters and, perhaps, the odd recreational ultramarathoner have long dreamed of encircling the 32-mile perimeter of Manhattan along a dedicated, protected path. While the Parks Department currently has no master plan to ring the island with esplanades, the department is working with public and private organizations to fill in some of the gaps. For now, we’ll have to be content with the virtually uninterrupted stretch of bike paths and greenways that extend from Battery Park up to Inwood Hill Park along the Hudson, and a couple of long ribbons of riverside lanes along the East River. Still, cyclists armed with a fat-tire mountain bike, an urban-pioneering spirit and a willingness to turn a blind eye to the occasional restricted area can circumnavigate the island while staying next to or within eyeshot of water. (Estimated travel time, pedaling at a leisurely pace, is four hours.)
Mileage: About 32 miles
Time: Four hours
Highlights: Looking at Jersey from Battery Park, Inwood Hill Park
A After Battery Park, it’s smooth sailing on bike lanes clear up to Riverside Park. From 83rd to 91st Streets, the single-track path along the river has disintegrated, and cyclists are warned to follow a detour; however, a mountain bike with knobby tires can traverse the rough terrain.
B Near the Fairway market (at 132nd Street), the path forces you left on St. Clair Place. Follow the green bike path signs along Twelfth Avenue. The bike path resumes at 135th Street. The path runs east to skirt Riverbank State Park, returning to the river at 145th.
C At the Little Red Lighthouse you must climb a killer hill; the path switches back to a bluff overlooking the Hudson, parallel to the northbound Henry Hudson Parkway (9A). Ignore the pedestrian bridge that crosses 9A and stay on the trail; you’ll pass the shell of an arcade on the left.
D At the Dyckman Street exit of 9A, a stairway on your left leads down to street level, forcing you to portage (though daredevils can ride it out). At the bottom of the stairs, veer left down the hill on Staff Street; you’ll have to turn left on Dyckman. Don’t follow the green bike-path signs—they lead you in a circle. Follow Dyckman to the entrance of Inwood Hill Park (Dyckman ball fields). Turn right into the park.
E Portage over the pedestrian bridge (just past the ball fields) and turn left; you’ll climb in the forests high above Spuyten Duyvil, where the Hudson meets the Harlem River. Follow the path downhill and stay riverside. Follow the path past Baker Hill and around the lake to exit the park at West 218th Street and Indian Road. Go uphill on West 218th Street until you hit Broadway. (Now you’ll have some tricky navigating along city streets.)
F Turn right on Broadway then left at 215th Street. Turn right again at Tenth Avenue. Turn left at 207th to avoid the congestion of the merging streets, and turn right on Ninth Avenue. Turn right again at 202nd. At Tenth Avenue, turn left.
G Where Tenth Avenue crosses Dyckman Street, head into High Bridge Park. A small path runs parallel to Harlem River Drive. Another runs along the park. Be sure to ride path along the water on Harlem Drive; the path along the park is a disaster.
H The Harlem River Drive exit for Fifth Avenue and 155th Street cuts you off from the river. Veer right with traffic, staying on the parallel path, which turns into a sidewalk. Climb a moderately steep hill as you pedal away from the river (a housing project will be to your left). At 155th Street, turn left. At Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Boulevard, turn right. (Note: Ignore the streets behind the Harlem River Houses at 153rd; while they will seemingly take you closer to the river, they’re not through streets. Likewise, the promenade behind Esplanade Gardens at 143rd Street is a dead end.) Turn left at 142nd. Hug the frontage road along Harlem River Drive. Go through the intersection at 135th Street. At 132nd Street, the road veers into Park Avenue. Turn left on 131st, right on Lexington and left on 127th.
I At 127th Street and Second Avenue, you’ll encounter Crack Is Wack Playground (yes, its actual name). Two streets form a “V” intersection there: The one on the right is Marginal Street; follow it to 124th Street and make a left. Continue on 124th as it curves to the right and becomes Paldino Avenue. At 120th Street, follow the pedestrian bridge over the FDR.
J The bike path, which resumes at 125th Street, continues unimpeded to Carl Schurz Park. It gets too rough for a road bike, so walk past the park. At 80th Street, you’ll need to portage down a stairway. Keep going along the river until 60th Street; turn right. Turn left on York (which turns into Sutton Place at 59th Street). At 53rd Street; turn right.
K Turn left on First Avenue. (You’ll be going against traffic, but you’ll need to do this to keep the river in sight; if it’s early enough in the morning, ride on the sidewalk—but look out for cops. Or play it safe and go down Second Avenue with the direction of traffic.) Stay on First Avenue to 37th Street. Turn left. Turn right again at the river. From here, you’re on bike paths almost all the way to Battery Park.
George
Fri, May 02, at 08:44am
Restrooms: East side, around 8th St and that's it. Depending where you start and end you can leave your bike in the bike waiting area of the Staten Island Ferry terminal and go upstairs (let the guard know to keep an eye out). Most playgrounds have bathrooms, few along the upper Hudson (Inwood Park, 150's, another south of 85th) though closed dusk til dawn (or less). Once you hit the 60's there's none until Chelsea Piers which also has public bathrooms, then none till the ferry.
George
Fri, May 02, at 08:33am
And a tip - if you like food and beer there's two great stops along the Hudson I'd recommend. 1) Chelsea Brewery in back of the piers (around 23rd Street) - good burgers, outdoor seating, and good microbrewery. The second is Dinosaur BBQ up between 125th and 135th (when you have to go back to the street). Some outdoor seating and the beef brisket is amazing. If you ride counterclockwise around the island instead of clockwise you'll be good and hungry by the time you hit one or the other.
George
Fri, May 02, at 08:29am
K) The 37th Street access is usually locked - if you're lucky it will be open but it's hit or miss. Go down to 36th Street, ride the sidewalk till 35th. Wait for the light, cross over, and then head down. After you get past 12th Street it's pretty chaotic with huge potholes all over. Here's where if you have a road bike with thin tires you want to be careful. Also no one pays attention to where they're walking so this part can be annoying.
George
Fri, May 02, at 08:20am
Wow - this is old. Few mistakes:
George
Fri, May 02, at 06:26am
Arg, paragraphs are hard here. OK, for J) "too rough for a road bike" - not quite true. It is a bit rough but that's most of the east side and especially south of 37th Street. Be careful of kids and pedestrians - none of them seem to stay near the water and instead walk where the path (used to be) painted.
George
Fri, May 02, at 06:22am
A) "cyclists are warned to follow a detour; however, a mountain bike with knobby tires can traverse the rough terrain." - This is being renovated so unless you can jump 12' fences you'll have to take the detour. Think it'll be about a year when they complete the platform over the water but then no detours. Also the detour has been completely renovated with new pavement, plantings, benches, dog run, etc.... - just be careful of kids running around.