Jonny Cohen and Michael Lagnese

Photograph: Beth Levendis

Jonny Cohen and Michael Lagnese, co-owners 8th Street Wine Cellar

"We do the basics really well," responds the barkeep when asked for a list of cocktails. It's the prevailing sentiment at Jonny Cohen and Michael Lagnese's eight-month-old neighborhood wine bar (8th Street Wine Cellar; 28 W 8th St between Fifth Ave and Macdougal St, 212-260-9463), and an appropriate one given their pedigrees. The pair worked at Union Square Cafe for 10 and 12 years respectively before teaming up to go it on their own. "There was only so much more we could learn at that point," says Lagnese of the Danny Meyer stalwart, lauded for its excellent service. The two of them used their expertise to open this basement bar with a tight, global wine list (75 bottles and 20 by the glass), artisanal beers and a menu of straightforward, seasonal snacks.

The warm service is pure Meyer: A small team keeps tabs on the dense weekend crowds, flagging empty seats for patrons lingering near the bar and fielding all manner of vino-related questions. "Union Square was really good at educating the staff about the wine so that they weren't faking it," says Cohen. "Twice a week we open up one of the bottles on our list and discuss it. We want our people to know what they are talking about too."

But the real USC legacy here is less quantifiable. "There was a feeling you would get when you were at the Cafe that you were part of a family and the staff actually wanted you to be there," says Cohen. "At 8th Street we want you to feel like we want to have a glass of wine with you. And sometimes we will."

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