Illustration: Atsuhiro Saisho

“A small cornmeal dumpling flavored with chopped scallions, deep-fried and served hot.”—The Food Lover’s Companion, fourth edition

The ambiguous origins of this Southern classic could rival that of eggs Benedict. Some claim that the starchy nuggets, typically served alongside fried catfish, were made from leftover cornmeal coating and tossed to the dogs to quiet them while dinner was being made (hence the name). Other stories credit American slaves, who fashioned them from unused meal, added onion and plunged them into hot oil. These days, hush puppies often take the place of bread at eateries south of the Mason Dixon; recently, we’ve been noticing them on menus around town. The version at R.U.B. (208 W 23rd St between Seventh and Eighth Aves, 212-524-4300) might be NYC’s most authentic: The vaguely mealy globes taste of onion powder, and are served with packets of butter in a paper-lined basket—nothing fancy. At Blue Smoke (116 E 27th St between Park Ave South and Lexington Ave, 212-447-7733), the side is elevated to city-slicker standards, with delicate rings of scallion trapped in a golden crust, and spicy-sweet jalapeño marmalade for smearing. Chef Jonathan Waxman further improves on the formula at the recently opened Madaleine Mae (461 Columbus Ave at 82nd St, 212-496-3000), where the craggy surface of the greaseless fist-size beauties conceals a kernel-dotted batter. But New York’s best may be Market Table’s (54 Carmine St at Bedford St, 212-255-2100). The crisp, flawless orbs come piled in miniature cast-iron skillet with a pot of honey butter ripe for the spreading. High cholesterol never felt so right.

—Jordana Rothman