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    Time Out New York / Issue 651 : Mar 19–25, 2008

    Pretty in drink

    Leave the whites to the chefs—the mixologist is the food world’s fashion icon of the moment. Here’s what it takes to be a cocktail geek…or just look like one.

    By Jordana Rothman

    Toby Maloney, the beverage director at Rusty Knot, shows off his bag of bartender tools.

    Photograph: Beth Levendis

    1 Microplane zester
    This file-like utensil is used to easily extract zest, the essential-oil-packed peel, from a range of citrus fruits.

    2 Peelers
    These two peelers have very different applications—number 2 is used to cut wide swatches of pithless citrus zest for twists. Number 5, meanwhile, is primarily for coring fruits.

    3 Spoons
    Maloney took these five spoon-straw hybrids from Milk and Honey when he worked there in 2000. “They’re a touchstone,” he says. “ I still carry them with me.”

    4 Paring knife
    Maloney uses this Henckel blade to cut garnishes, including “horse’s necks”—long, narrow spirals sliced from a whole lemon.

    5 More peelers
    See number 2.

    6 Channel knife
    Like much of Maloney’s gear, this Wusthof channel knife is intended for citrus. Dragging the instrument over the surface of an orange or lemon will produce a rope of zest fortified with a small amount of pith.

    7 “Flattie”
    Maloney prefers a flat bottle opener (called a “flattie”), explaining that thicker versions of the tool can rip the head off of a beer bottle if it’s opened too rapidly in a fast-paced bar setting. The ring on the opposite end of the opener helps him find and remove it easily from his pocket.

    8 Shakers
    Though the two-piece “Boston” shaker is the standard among serious bartenders (three-piece “cobbler” shakers, usually outfitted with inefficient top-pouring strainers, are considered amateur), most agree that it’s difficult to find a good one on the market. As a result, shakers like the ones seen here are improvised: Maloney uses two tin canisters (the larger ones are Wincow brand, the smaller ones are Johnson & Row), as opposed to the standard tin-and-glass combination, because of their more manageable weight.

    9 Strainer
    The two basic straining tools are the scoop-shaped julep strainer (12), often used for stirred cocktails, and the Hawthorne (9), distinguishable by its coil. Maloney advises to look for Hawthornes with extremely tight coils to “mitigate your gate,” or control the amount of ice that gets through the strainer.

    10 Jigger
    As a unit of measurement, a jigger refers to 1.5 fluid ounces, and as such, the standard format of this hourglass-shaped tool, used to precisely measure the amount of liquor in a drink, features a 1-ounce cone on one side and a 1.5-ounce cone on the other. Maloney’s, however, is a less traditional 2- and 1-ounce version that offers more measurement flexibility (and, with any luck, a more potent tipple).

    11 Mortar and pestle
    Home-blended bitters are to the cocktail maven what special salts are to the exacting foodie. Maloney uses this metal mortar and pestle (11) to grind herbs and spices into homebrewed concoctions. The droppers (16) contain his potions—fall, winter, spring and summer blends, as well as a spicy “hellfire” mix based on a recipe from Charles H. Baker, author of The Gentleman’s Companion.

    12 Another strainer
    See number 9.

    13 Bar spoon
    The thickness of this bar spoon makes it three times heavier than a standard version—a helpful feature when cracking ice. The spiraled handle is designed to spin smoothly between a barkeep’s fingers when stirring a drink.

    14 Funnels
    Maloney uses these plastic funnels to decant sugar, salt, alcohol or other liquids between containers.

    15 Flask
    “This is for personal use,” Maloney says of this small flask loaded with Matusalem rum, a spirit made in the Dominican Republic by Cuban producers.

    16 Bitters
    See number 11.

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    • 5453 Tony Sun, Apr 13, at 11:07pm
      Hey this is cool and cute but what if you really worked at a real bar and your busting your ass off making drinks till you sweat and you pass out from all the women and men kissing your ass for a beer...I would just rather do that and wear a hot "T" and keep the cash....................................Tony

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4594 john p Fri, Mar 21, at 02:01pm
      The article mentions the pants can be made on Forsythe Street. I would like to know where on Forsythe Street. I was there and did not see any tailors.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4593 john p Fri, Mar 21, at 01:59pm
      where on Forsythe Street? I have been up and down that street and could not locate a tailor(s).

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4416 Estie Wed, Mar 19, at 01:15pm
      If you come to Chicago you must check out Violet Hour in Wicker Park and if your lucky Toby Maloney will be behind the bar! You won't find a better cocktail in Chicago.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4412 Gigi Wed, Mar 19, at 11:13am
      Love this site and your classy and brilliant beverage director. Toby's Mom

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4411 sam Wed, Mar 19, at 10:27am
      arent these guys just fat kids who grew out of the ska punk scene?

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4405 I am not a chef Wed, Mar 19, at 09:34am
      Gee, one of the best bartenders I have seen in the last year was a neatly and unobtrusively dressed woman at Union Square Cafe. She let her work do the talking. And another similarly subtle gentleman at Otto made the best mixed drink I have had in a few years.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4406 I am not a chef Wed, Mar 19, at 07:34am
      Gee, one of the best bartenders I have seen in the last year was a neatly and unobtrusively dressed woman at Union Square Cafe. She let her work do the talking. And another similarly subtle gentleman at Otto made the best mixed drink I have had in a few years.

      Flag as inappropriate




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