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Survey
Life of pie Few things, save perhaps government sex scandals and MTA fare hikes, incite as much passionate debate among New Yorkers as pizza crust. One eater’s perfectly blistered, tender pie can be a soggy abomination in the mouth of another. Last summer, Isabella’s Oven (365 Grand St between Essex and Norfolk Sts, 212-529-5206) quietly entered the fray, turning Neapolitan-style pizzas out of its wood-burning oven and making Grand Street the latest destination for one of the city’s most ethereal crusts. Made by owner Philip Marino, the pizzas are charred to perfection, their crackly exterior yielding to an interior so light it makes rice paper seem leaden. Marino also has a judicious hand when it comes to toppings, as illustrated by two of our favorite pies, the Margherita DOC and the Tirolese. The former sports creamy discs of buffalo mozzarella, fat basil leaves, extra-virgin olive oil and a dusting of Parmigiano Reggiano atop a smear of sweet-tangy tomato sauce. The latter is crowned with speck, pecorino, mozzarella and extra-virgin olive oil. Despite this ostensibly gut-busting combination, meat, cheese and oil are applied with such a deft touch that it’s possible to eat half of a 16-inch pizza and still have plenty of room for cannoli. So while the crust wars may continue to rage, Isabella’s has conquered its corner of the Lower East Side. $21 for the 16-inch Margherita DOC; $23 for the 16-inch Tirolese
—Rebecca Flint Marx
See previous Critics' pick
Leigh
Tue, Apr 08, at 07:14pm
L'asso is definitely the best pizza in NYC, hands down.
Sean
Mon, Apr 07, at 07:44pm
L'asso is the most delicious. You should probably eat it.
David
Mon, Apr 07, at 01:41pm
I went there last night (Sun, 4/6) with a friend after reading your review. Had the mini Marguerita DOC. Floppy, limp crust. Not remarkable at all. Downright sub-par. I'll take neighborhood, metal-oven pizza over this any day. Saw a neighboring table had a large pie, which had prosciutto on it. That guy's slice also flopped when he picked it up. The portion of the crust that was not floppy was the edge which at parts were charred, hence carcinogenic. Did you get a specially-made pie?
Stephanie
Fri, Apr 04, at 11:10am
we should go here soon.
Bruce Funk
Thu, Apr 03, at 10:01pm
I don't know who's doing the rating, but I gave this place two shots, and aside from the ice cold pizza on each visit, the service was worse. I'll stick with Two Boots across the street. Nothing beats a hot slice!
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