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    Time Out New York / Issue 654 : Apr 9–15, 2008
    Best burgers

    Product placement

    New York City restaurants are capitalizing on their brands with mass-market versions of the foods that made them famous. But how do they measure up? Our panel compares notes.

    By Sara Pepitone

    Restaurant: Junior's (386 Flatbush Ave Extension at DeKalb Ave, Fort Greene, Brooklyn; 718-852-5257; 1515 Broadway, entrance on 45th St, between Broadway and Eighth Ave, 212-302-2000)

    AT THE RESTAURANT
    Photograph: David Rosenzweig and Erkan Said

    Menu item: Little Fella (a three-inch cheesecake), $3.95

    FROM THE STORE
    Photograph: David Rosenzweig and Erkan Said

    Retail product: Little Fella, around $2.99. Available at Fairway, Zabar's and Kings grocery stores

    The Testers

    • Steven Goldstein, restaurant consultant
    • Rod Brogan, prepared foods junkie
    • Kanlea Clark, Gristedes cashier

    The Claim
    "Whether you enjoy it in one of the restaurants or enjoy it at home, [Junior’s] legendary cheesecake recipe is the same and is sure to put a smile on a face and a party in your stomach," says Bruce Bobbins, director of communications for Junior’s.

    The Restaurant
    The restaurant's Little Fella earned pans all around: "It's thick and heavy," said Clark. Brogan called it "chalky," and Goldstein summed it up: "It's a lousy cheesecake," he said.

    The Retail
    Everyone took a palate-clearing gulp of water before digging into the slightly lighter retail cake. "Both have an aftertaste," said Clark, grimacing. Brogan agreed: "This is chalkier and has more of one." Goldstein called the flavor "cornstarch" and proclaimed both versions inferior cheesecakes. The main difference between the two? Cooking time. "The restaurant's was slightly darker, while the market's was slightly raw," he said.

    The Verdict
    Thumbs down

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