Photograph: Alessandra Okshteyn

Perhaps making other eco-minded restaurants green with envy, Gusto Organics bears the distinction of being NYC’s first USDA-certified organic eatery. Beyond its pesticide-free menu, the wind-powered operation stays true to its mission with reclaimed barn-wood tables, recycled-paper menus and takeout forks fashioned from corn. We would have been happier if as much attention had been paid to the food. A humita empanada featured a doughy grilled crust that dribbled out a bland salsa bianca and kernels of sweet corn. Grilling was also the culprit in a brittle Margherita pizza starter, topped with ketchup-sweet tomato sauce and gluey mozzarella. The latter duo also plagued a special of gratinados, a piping-hot casserole filled with a humdrum penne pasta that didn’t seem to merit its $18 price tag. More exorbitant still was the $29 filet mignon, two moderately sized medallions of remarkably juicy beef. Too bad the meat was charred beyond our order of medium-rare, not to mention the sides of watery kale and a nondescript mesclun salad. Dessert, sadly, couldn’t save the meal: The dulce de leche ice cream tasted like it suffered from freezer burn. Safeguarding the earth shouldn’t mean sacrificing our taste buds and wallet, should it?