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  • Restaurants & Bars

    Time Out New York / Issue 668 : Jul 17–23, 2008

    Cone heads

    All-American soft serve gets three haute makeovers.

    Photographs: Jeff Gurwin, Shani Bar-on

    1. After a month of tinkering, chef Juventino Avila and the pastry team at Bonita have developed a soft serve to their liking ($7). The rotating flavors reflect the restaurant’s South of the Border menu: Hibiscus and Madagascar vanilla come topped with fleur de sel or Oaxacan chocolate shavings. Yes, they can be swirled.




    2. It’s nearly impossible to tell, but at Kyotofu, pastry chef Pauline Balboa’s soft serve ($7) replaces dairy with malty house-made soy milk. Flavors, which change weekly, take their cues from Japan—right now, there’s white sesame and chocolate black soybean. Forget cones: This sweet comes with five condiments, including nutty kinako (toasted soy flour), kuromitsu (Japanese black sugar) and house-made mochi.




    3. Like many things at Momofuku Noodle Bar the soft serve (in a cup or sugar cone, $4) was developed on a whim. The dessert is a childhood favorite of pastry chef Christina Tosi, whose quirky, homegrown flavors include Crackerjack, and a seasonal strawberry with a crushed-pretzel topping. Watch out, Pinkberry: There’s a yogurt variety, too.

    — Pervaiz Shallwani



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