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    • Convivio puts the “giving” back in Thanksgiving

    • Published on 11/20/08

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  • Restaurants & Bars
    Time Out New York / Issue 669 : Jul 22–30, 2008

    Mystery science eater

    Experimental chefs often look to industrial technologies for new ideas in haute cooking. TONY examines the original mass-market uses of some of molecular gastronomy’s latest tricks.

    By Daniel Gritzer

    Photographs: Roxana Marroquin

    Sodium alginate or pectin and calcium

    THE FINE-DINING CREATION:
    At wd~50 (50 Clinton St between Rivington and Stanton Sts, 212-477-2900), chef-owner Wylie Dufresne serves “strawberry cheesecake,” a pellet of soft cream cheese encased in a strawberry membrane. The dish takes advantage of a gelling process that occurs when calcium (in the cream cheese) interacts with fruit- or algae-derived gelling agents, in this case, pectin in the strawberry juice.

    THE INDUSTRIAL VERSION:
    While the technique first appeared in fine-dining kitchens when famed Spanish chef Ferran Adrià debuted his olive oil “caviar” in 2003, “spherification” (Adrià’s term) has actually been in use much longer: Just take a look at your martini’s pimento-stuffed olive. Food-industry researchers, in their ongoing attempt to increase production efficiency, found that a gel made from pimento puree could be manufactured in a uniform size, making the mechanical stuffing process easier.

    See the next trick: Methylcellulose

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