Cinzia Reale-Castello

142 Mercer St at Prince St (212-431-7676). Subway: R, W to Prince St. Mon–Thu 11:30am–11pm; Fri 11:30am–midnight; Sat 5pm–midnight; Sun 4:30–10pm.  Average main course: $23.

Many of the changes at Lure, which reopened in May after it was damaged in a January fire, will go unnoticed by the untrained eye. The sexy subterranean restaurant still has its retro-luxe yacht interior: glossy teak planks on the floor and ceiling, beige leather half-moon banquettes and those signature porthole windows. The most significant changes—besides dropping the word Fishbar from its name—reflect Lure’s new emphasis on sushi, replacing the earlier focus on crudo. Chef Tanaka Shigenori (Jewel Bako, Sushi Yasuda) mans a sushi bar tucked into the rear of the dining room and prepares seasonal specialties, like flash-fried Japanese river crabs, in addition to classic staples and an omakase menu (available by request). We especially liked comparing the flavors and textures of different tunas and salmons (there are also two types of eel). Side dishes and salads were unexpected delights: The Asian slaw that came with plump fried bluepoint oysters was a revelation; Napa cabbage, carrots, red onions and peppers were shaved thin and tossed in a sweet, funky Thai vinaigrette made with the unusual addition of nam pla (fish sauce). But Lure’s greatest achievement is its treatment of the classics. Dishes that have become rote at so many upscale restaurants—seared yellowtail tuna, dry-aged sirloin steak—are executed here with the dazzling skill usually reserved for trendier  plates.—TONY