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      Photograph: Andrew Dier Photograph: Andrew Dier Photograph: Andrew Dier




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  • Travel

    Time Out New York / Issue 648 : Feb 27–Mar 4, 2008

    Bogotá, Colombia

    This cultural capital offers more than just coffee.

    By Andrew Dier

    Parque Simón Bolívar
    Photograph: Andrew Dier

    Twenty years ago, when the colorful Argentine actress Fanny Mikey proposed the idea of an international theater festival in her adopted home of Bogotá, Colombia, people said she was loca. Bogotá was considered too dangerous and too chaotic. Today, the Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro de Bogotá (festivaldeteatro.com.co), now in its 11th incarnation, has grown to become a huge theater festival and has played a major role in transforming this Andean metropolis, which sits above sea level, that much closer to the stars.

    Held March 7–23, the festival brings theater and dance troupes from 45 countries to stages and even city parks across the city for 650 performances, constituting the biggest cultural event in Colombia. ¿No español? No worries. This year, the U.K. is the country of honor, sending five acts to the capital. New York’s own avant-garde group Mabou Mines will also make the trip.

    The New York Times recently placed Bogotá on its list of top places to visit in 2008, and tourism is indeed taking off. American, Avianca and Continental operate daily nonstop flights out of New York, and more nonstops from the U.S. are expected soon. Accommodations options are also becoming more plentiful. Two new—and quite different—ones include the swanky BH El Retiro (Calle 80 No. 10–11; bhhoteles.com), which overlooks a park near the Zona Rosa shopping, dining and nightlife area and the friendly Cafecito Hostel (Carrera 6 No. 34–70; cafecito.net), for those who don’t mind sharing their room with European backpackers.

    Once you’ve adjusted to the high altitude, head to the perennially artsy Macarena district, just up from the bullfighting ring. After your various theater engagements, take dinner at classy Spanish joint Donostia (Calle 29 Bis, No. 5–84, 287-3943) near the Museo Nacional, drinks at minimalist EnObra (Carrera 4A No. 26A–37, 284-0310) and possibly a little dancing on the 41st floor of the old Hilton Hotel (a shiny new one is being built) at fab Cha Cha (elchacha.com). While these places are certifiably hip, that doesn’t equal unfriendly. You’ll be impressed by polite service and chatty locals, who become even friendlier after a few glasses of whiskey, the preferred poison.

    Armed with sunscreen, a lightweight sweater and an umbrella just in case—Bogotá surprises with famously fickle weather—tackle the sites on Sunday, Ciclovia day. The beloved Ciclovia is a weekly Bogotá institution when over 100 miles of city streets are closed to traffic and two million (yes, two million!) bikers, bladers, joggers and dog walkers take to the roads.

    For some perspective, start at the top of the Colpatria Bank Tower (Carrera 7; No. 24–89, 334-0600) for a 360-degree view of the sprawling city of eight million. Below, on the Avenida Séptima, join the crowds and stroll past the flea market through bustling downtown and feed pigeons in the historic Plaza de Bolívar.

    Heading toward the mountains, stroll down pedestrian Calle 10, which is the most important street for culture in the country. Just past the recently inaugurated Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center is the Museo Botero (Calle 11 No. 4–41, 343-1212), a divinely peaceful colonial-era house filled with 123 of the maestro’s works. Galleries of the Museo de Arte del Banco de la República (Calle 11 No. 4–21, lablaa.org) showcase artists from Colombia and beyond, and an abbreviated version of the famed Gold Museum is next door (its expansion will be completed in August).

    As cliché as it may sound, no trip to Colombia is complete without coffee. No better place for that than at Juan Valdez (Calle 11 No. 4–15, 343-1316), a chain that has so far managed to prevent Starbucks from invading the country. Try a cheesy almojabana (before ordering, practice saying it a few times) along with a cappuccino—and don’t forget to snag a bag or two of 100 percent Colombian for your friends back home. Go to Colombia and return without coffee? That’s just wrong.

    THE TAB

    Four nights, two people

    Flight $1300
    Hotel $680
    Theater tickets $120
    + Meals $390

    TOTAL $2,490

    Travel Time 6hrs

    Been somewhere great recently? Tell us where to go at travel@timeoutny.com.



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    • 4404 marc berman Wed, Mar 19, at 06:39am
      Great article by Andrew Dier. He should write more often for the magazine.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4084 jason Sun, Mar 02, at 12:42am
      Bogota has an elevation of 2600 meters, and the city's slogan is "bogota 2,600 meters closer to the stars" - think that got cut off in this article

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4043 dbs Fri, Feb 29, at 12:28pm
      When is NYC getting Ciclovia???? http://www.streetsblog.org/2007/12/03/ciclovia-a-moving-experience-in-bogota/

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 4040 Pepe5 Fri, Feb 29, at 09:56am
      Test Post

      Flag as inappropriate






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