Parque Simón Bolívar

Photograph: Andrew Dier

Twenty years ago, when the colorful Argentine actress Fanny Mikey proposed the idea of an international theater festival in her adopted home of Bogotá, Colombia, people said she was loca. Bogotá was considered too dangerous and too chaotic. Today, the Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro de Bogotá (festivaldeteatro.com.co), now in its 11th incarnation, has grown to become a huge theater festival and has played a major role in transforming this Andean metropolis, which sits above sea level, that much closer to the stars.

Held March 7–23, the festival brings theater and dance troupes from 45 countries to stages and even city parks across the city for 650 performances, constituting the biggest cultural event in Colombia. ¿No español? No worries. This year, the U.K. is the country of honor, sending five acts to the capital. New York’s own avant-garde group Mabou Mines will also make the trip.

The New York Times recently placed Bogotá on its list of top places to visit in 2008, and tourism is indeed taking off. American, Avianca and Continental operate daily nonstop flights out of New York, and more nonstops from the U.S. are expected soon. Accommodations options are also becoming more plentiful. Two new—and quite different—ones include the swanky BH El Retiro (Calle 80 No. 10–11; bhhoteles.com), which overlooks a park near the Zona Rosa shopping, dining and nightlife area and the friendly Cafecito Hostel (Carrera 6 No. 34–70; cafecito.net), for those who don’t mind sharing their room with European backpackers.

Once you’ve adjusted to the high altitude, head to the perennially artsy Macarena district, just up from the bullfighting ring. After your various theater engagements, take dinner at classy Spanish joint Donostia (Calle 29 Bis, No. 5–84, 287-3943) near the Museo Nacional, drinks at minimalist EnObra (Carrera 4A No. 26A–37, 284-0310) and possibly a little dancing on the 41st floor of the old Hilton Hotel (a shiny new one is being built) at fab Cha Cha (elchacha.com). While these places are certifiably hip, that doesn’t equal unfriendly. You’ll be impressed by polite service and chatty locals, who become even friendlier after a few glasses of whiskey, the preferred poison.

Armed with sunscreen, a lightweight sweater and an umbrella just in case—Bogotá surprises with famously fickle weather—tackle the sites on Sunday, Ciclovia day. The beloved Ciclovia is a weekly Bogotá institution when over 100 miles of city streets are closed to traffic and two million (yes, two million!) bikers, bladers, joggers and dog walkers take to the roads.

For some perspective, start at the top of the Colpatria Bank Tower (Carrera 7; No. 24–89, 334-0600) for a 360-degree view of the sprawling city of eight million. Below, on the Avenida Séptima, join the crowds and stroll past the flea market through bustling downtown and feed pigeons in the historic Plaza de Bolívar.

Heading toward the mountains, stroll down pedestrian Calle 10, which is the most important street for culture in the country. Just past the recently inaugurated Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center is the Museo Botero (Calle 11 No. 4–41, 343-1212), a divinely peaceful colonial-era house filled with 123 of the maestro’s works. Galleries of the Museo de Arte del Banco de la República (Calle 11 No. 4–21, lablaa.org) showcase artists from Colombia and beyond, and an abbreviated version of the famed Gold Museum is next door (its expansion will be completed in August).

As cliché as it may sound, no trip to Colombia is complete without coffee. No better place for that than at Juan Valdez (Calle 11 No. 4–15, 343-1316), a chain that has so far managed to prevent Starbucks from invading the country. Try a cheesy almojabana (before ordering, practice saying it a few times) along with a cappuccino—and don’t forget to snag a bag or two of 100 percent Colombian for your friends back home. Go to Colombia and return without coffee? That’s just wrong.

THE TAB

Four nights, two people

Flight $1300
Hotel $680
Theater tickets $120
+ Meals $390

TOTAL $2,490

Travel Time 6hrs

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