Cornelius

Once a novelty, the gastropub is practically run-of-the-mill these days. Pork-slinging, whiskey-soaked saloons are sprouting up in every self-respecting 'hood, from the West Village's Wilfie & Nell to Cornelius, a two-month-old Prospect Heights haunt. Nineteenth-century railroad tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt inspired the bar's name and sumptuous aesthetic: dark wood, dangling acorn-shaped lights, gold window lettering, and enough costly Scotches and whiskeys to evoke a more prosperous era—like 2008. But this is '09, and thankfully, there's tremendous value to be found at Cornelius's tile-topped bar—the generous weekday happy hours featuring discounted drafts and one-buck oysters are popular among the youngish bar-going set. But the real draw here is the 200-plus collection of spirits, from such impeccable boutique distillers as Tuthilltown (try the woodsy Hudson Baby Bourbon) and Blue Coat, which makes a fantastic floral gin. The spirit menu's omission of descriptions can be maddening, but the informed bartenders will eagerly offer input or mix dead-on cocktails dreamed up by the Royalton Hotel's mixologist, Somer Perez. Her red-tinted Long Island "Railroad" Tea (rooibos tea, whiskey, bourbon, lemon juice and Grand Marnier) is a sweet, nutty punch with a citric tang. The apple-ginger margarita (tequila, apple chutney, ginger, orange zest) is a zippy, palate-tingling reviver, while the warming bourbon-and-bitters Steamboat is a maple-syrup-spiked riff on the Manhattan. Occasionally, playful ingredients create catastrophes, like the overly herbaceous Cornelius (gin, honey, lime and too much muddled sage). If you're off the hard stuff, opt for a notable draft beer: The rotating taps include standouts such as Kelso's orange-kissed St. Gowanus Belgian ale and Goose Island's decadent Bourbon County Stout. These strong brews and cocktails demand serious grub, and ex-Freemans sous chef Michelle Hanna is up to task, with a winning menu of classed-up comfort food. The gooey mac and cheese is crowned with crisp lardons and a tangle of arugula, while her hefty pulled-pork sliders are dressed with black-bean mash and spicy jalapeos. Most addictive are the cornmeal-fried pickled veggies, greasy goodies best dunked in a zesty red-pepper sauce. Great drinks and grub to boot? The city's gastropub club may be getting crowded, but with triumphs like these, Cornelius is a welcome addition.—TONY

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