The Stumble Inn
Thu Oct 9 2008
Photograph: Imogen Brown
Time Out Ratings<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
"I'm ready for football!" screamed a meaty dude in an Eli Manning jersey on a recent Thursday night at the Stumble Inn, the raucous successor to the beloved Mo's Caribbean. Nearby, tie-loosened office workers battled in beer pong ("Drink! Drink!"), while baseball-hatted dudes furiously played foosball and ignored the heel-clad ladies angling for another round of sickly-sweet SoCo Lime and vodka Lemon Drop shots. This loud, loutish saloon, the fifth watering hole in co-owner Danny Thomases's empire (which also includes collegiate dives Jake's Dilemma and the Gin Mill), is a rec room for the wrecked. In its brutishness, though, it is a perfect fit for this Alpha Delta Phi neighborhood, lousy with dives that appeal to past-prime partyers who approach drunkenness as a competitive sport. So it doesn't surprise that Mo's palm trees and reggae bands have been replaced by a Circuit City's worth of sports-tuned TVs, easy-on-the-eyes waitresses and a party-hard mind-set. The 14 drafts mix class (Blue Moon, Red Hook IPA) with crap (expected domestics), but if it's liquor you're after, don't order anything more exotic than two-ingredient cocktails like whiskey-and-Cokes. Quantity, not quality, is the key selling point, with a half-off deal until 7pm on weekdays. But decrease your IQ, and you can find lowbrow bliss. Crisp, meaty buffalo wings are spicily sauced, and the oozing, bacon-stuffed burgers are palm-filling perfection. So go on: Drink more, root louder, eat the deep-fried hot dogs and Double Stuf Oreos. That's the ethos of the Stumble Inn: too much of a good thing.