Winter beers of the world

United States: Elysian Bifrst Winter Ale
Hop heads can get their fix during the colder months with this golden-hued seasonal from Seattle. An aroma of orange peel and sweet apples evokes the spirit of a winter ale, but the bold brew drinks more like an imperial IPA, with a tidal wave of citrus and earthiness riding atop a sturdy malt backbone. Available at Whole Foods Bowery Beer Room, 95 E Houston St between Bowery and Chrystie St (212-420-1320). 22oz bottle $5.99.

England: Ridgeway Warm Welcome Nut Browned Ale
Ridgeway's Christmas series brings a bit of tongue-in-cheek fun to holiday boozing, with names like Santa's Butt and Criminally Bad Elf. Our favorite of the bunch is the "nut browned" ale (see the label---in which Santa's family jewels are positioned precariously close to a roaring fire---to get the pun). It's a bit hoppier than most brown ales, but lovely roasted, nutty malts give it classic British character. Available at New Beer Distributors, 167 Chrystie St between Delancey and Rivington Sts (212-260-4360). 25oz bottle $TK.

Belgium: Scaldis Nol Premium
At a formidable 13 percent ABV, this cork-stopped Wallonian beer will get you in the holiday spirit in no time. The essence of dark fruits, like plum and dates, comes through over the complex and unmistakably Belgian yeast character, and the strong undercurrent of alcohol makes the mahogany brew as warming as a nip of brandy. Available at The Cannibal, 113 E 29th St between Park and Lexington Aves (212-686-5480). 750ml bottle $42.

France: La Choulette de Nol
The charming farm scene on the label of this festive treat offers a fitting introduction to its rustic pleasures. The small brewery's bire de garde---a strong farmhouse ale traditionally brewed in winter and matured until spring---is among the world's finest examples of the style, and here it's emboldened for cold-weather tippling. A spicy aroma gives way to rich, earthy notes and layers of stewed fruits, while a subtle tartness and bubbly effervescence keeps you coming back for more. Available at Whole Foods Bowery Beer Room, 95 E Houston St between Bowery and Chrystie St (212-420-1320). 750ml bottle $10.99.

Norway: Ngne- Winter Ale
If you took an English-style porter and outfitted it for the frigid Scandinavian winter, you'd likely end up with something like this decadent brew---a yuletide sipper that's boozy, rich and sweet enough to stand in for dessert. Bittersweet chocolate and roasted-coffee notes waft off of its gorgeous tan head, and each velvety sip coats the palate in rich caramel. Available at Good Beer, 422 E 9th St between First Ave and Ave A (212-677-4836). 500ml bottle $TK.

Italy: Baladin Noel
Italian craft-brew pioneer Teo Musso is known for his innovative use of spices and herbs, subbing out hops for unusual ingredients like ginger and gentian root to flavor his creations. This Belgian-style ale is characteristically offbeat, delivering a wintry mix of dried fruits, orange peel and cocoa powder, plus a distinctive sweetness courtesy of the cane sugar used in the brewing process. The beer's richness is tempered by floral, peppery notes and a satisfyingly dry finish. Available at Eataly, 200 Fifth Ave between W 23rd and W 24th Sts (212-229-2560). 25.4oz bottle, $16.80.