Wed Mar 5 2008
Photograph: Jeff Gurwin
Time Out Ratings<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
Located in the middle of an unlikely Greenpoint Avenue bar scene is 68, the two-month-old sibling of neighboring Coco 66, a local pioneer. With its brick-walled bar and stainless steel tables, 68 serves ample helpings of the same industrial sexiness that made Coco 66 a hit. Only 68 has something 66 doesn’t: food. The eclectic menu teeters between Latin American and gut-busting gastrogrub, with plenty in between. The choices of appetizers, for instance, include both walnut-stuffed dates with bacon and yucca-encrusted scallops. We ate that succulent, immaculately seared seafood, perched atop a slick of herbaceous salsa verde, without complaint. A bruléed goat cheese starter also scored, the sweet blueberries and roasted beets lending a subtle contrast to the tangy rounds of cheese. Entrées, unfortunately, lacked similar nuance. A sirloin steak was overly salted (though the accompanying fries were addictively crispy), while a bland Florida tilapia could have used more of the stuff. Desserts, while not wildly original, were deeply satisfying: crème brûlée received an inspired jolt from Drambuie, and the warm chocolate cake was bittersweet bliss. Although it still has some kinks to work out, 68’s heart (and business sense) is in the right place: After a glass of wine took more than a half hour to appear, all of our beverages were on the house, and served with sincere apologies. And that, more than any flattering lighting design, is truly sexy.