Best fancy dishes

Pancetta at A Voce
Chef Missy Robbins delivers a delicious new spin on New York's most overexposed cut of meat, pork belly—offered here as a nutty (pistachios), fruity (fresh figs), sweet (balsamic vinegar), unctuous (pork!) tour de force. 10 Columbus Circle at Broadway (212-823-2523, avocerestaurant.com). $12.

Pancetta at A Voce
Chef Missy Robbins delivers a delicious new spin on New York's most overexposed cut of meat, pork belly—offered here as a nutty (pistachios), fruity (fresh figs), sweet (balsamic vinegar), unctuous (pork!) tour de force. 10 Columbus Circle at Broadway (212-823-2523, avocerestaurant.com). $12.

Pulpo at Txikito
Boiled octopus is sliced thin and plated to resemble a pressed flower in this gorgeous dish from chef Alexandra Raij. Simple seasoning—Espelette pepper, sea salt, lemon oil and marjoram—only boosts the superlative taste. 240 Ninth Ave between 24th and 25th Sts (212-242-4730, txikitonyc.com). $15.

Dinner at Brooklyn Fare
Five times a week, former Bouley toque Csar Ramirez transforms a prep kitchen into his playground, conjuring creative multicourse journeys (including, say, delicate raw fish dotted with caviar and zingy rmoulade) for 12 diners, tops. 200 Schermerhorn St at Hoyt St, Downtown Brooklyn (make reservations by calling 718-243-0050 or e-mailing kitchen@brooklynfare.com). $95.

Foie gras and quail terrine at Aureole
This elegant dish is a perfect storm of flavors and textures: the focused sweetness of fig compote, the herbal pluck of sloe-gin gelatin beads, the toastiness of salted hazelnuts, the minerality of celeriac and the velvety smoothness of foie gras. 135 W 42nd St between Broadway and Sixth Ave (212-319-1660, charliepalmer.com). $23.