Best noodles/pasta

Chow mein at Tashi Delek Momo
This tiny Tibetan restaurant restores chow mein's besmirched name with springy handmade egg noodles lightly stir-fried with bits of chewy, jerkylike beef. In the rear of Merit Kabab Palace, 37-67 74th St between Northern Blvd and 37th Rd, Jackson Heights, Queens (646-203-9938). $6.

Chow mein at Tashi Delek Momo
This tiny Tibetan restaurant restores chow mein's besmirched name with springy handmade egg noodles lightly stir-fried with bits of chewy, jerkylike beef. In the rear of Merit Kabab Palace, 37-67 74th St between Northern Blvd and 37th Rd, Jackson Heights, Queens (646-203-9938). $6.

Cold lan zhou noodles at Golden Mall
This Flushing food-court noodle joint tops a mound of thick, hand-pulled ribbons with spicy Szechuan peppercorn oil and fresh herbs: It's hot, cold and addictive. 41-28 Main St between Sanford Ave and 41st Rd, Flushing, Queens (718-885-7788). $3.50.

Lagman at Taam-Tov
Rugged, hand-formed noodles swim in a savory broth with carrots, onions, stewed meat and potatoes, and the whole shebang is topped with spoonfuls of pungent minced garlic. It's Bukharian winter sustenance. 41 W 47th St between Fifth and Sixth Aves, third floor (212-768-8001). $5.

tagliolini at Scarpetta
Chunky black strands of squid-ink pasta wind around a briny tangle of seafood—sea urchin, clams, mussels, squid—in Scott Conant's maritime masterpiece. 355 W 14th St at Ninth Ave (212-691-0555, scarpettanyc.com). $26.

Tagliolini with squid ink at Piccola Cucina
Chef Philip Guardione cooks tomatoes for seven hours before mixing in squid ink for this black-as-night pasta sauce. At once briny and sweet, the concentrated rag clings to the house-made tagliolini like leather on Elvis. 184 Prince St between Sullivan and Thompson Sts (212-625-3200). $17--$22.