Best nouveau chophouse: Walter Foods

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In the age of throwback restaurants and bars, few establishments capture the sumptuousness of that imagined golden age as well as Walter Foods. Its classic decorative trappings and emphasis on the all-American trifecta of oysters, steaks and cocktails made us half expect to see a clientele of walrus-mustachioed men with watch fobs and waistcoats. We didn't, but the bow-tie-clad barkeep and spot-on menu more than made up for it. Walter Foods 253 Grand St between Driggs Ave and Roebling St, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-387-8783)

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