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Capocollo pizza at Saraghina
Pizzaiolo Edoardo Mantelli's tear-apart Neapolitan pie, forged in a wood-fired brick oven, is well-blistered bliss, liberally topped with fresh mozzarella and plenty of paper-thin slices of capocollo ham. 435 Halsey St at Lewis Ave, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn (718-574-0010). $14.

Clam pie at Salvatore of Soho
The high-heat, quick-cooking abilities of this pizzeria's custom coal oven add depth to its pies. We swoon for the salty crust, just-shucked clams, fresh garlic, grated pecorino romano and finishing drizzle of good olive oil. 1880 Hylan Blvd at Slater Blvd, Staten Island (718-979-7499, salvatoreofsoho.com). Small $20, large $30.

Popeye at Co.
It's not just the famous no-knead pizza dough topped with a tangy-spicy blend of pecorino, Gruyre, buffalo mozzarella, black pepper and garlic that we love; it's the raw spinach heaped on top halfway through baking, left to brown and curl into a smoky crispness in a 900-degree oven. 230 Ninth Ave at 24th St (212-243-1105, co-pane.com). $17.

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