Best seafood and ocean fare

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Ceviche mixto at Desnuda
The combination of raw fish, cinnamon, lemon juice, hot green pepper and pineapple might sound strange, but the spicy bass note and fruity sweetness are surprisingly good complements to the fresh salmon, tuna and tiger prawns. 122 E 7th St between First Ave and Ave A (212-254-3515, desnudany.com). $16.

Ceviche mixto at Desnuda
The combination of raw fish, cinnamon, lemon juice, hot green pepper and pineapple might sound strange, but the spicy bass note and fruity sweetness are surprisingly good complements to the fresh salmon, tuna and tiger prawns. 122 E 7th St between First Ave and Ave A (212-254-3515, desnudany.com). $16.

Feihong fish sticks at M+T
Several steps up from Mrs. Paul's, this bright restaurant specializing in Qingdao cuisine serves a spicy-salty explosion of peanuts, golden-fried fish nuggets and crackly hot peppers. 44-09 Kissena Blvd between Cherry and 45th Aves, Flushing, Queens (718-539-3398). $12.99.

Kamameshi with salmon and ikura at Robataya
NY Japan's one-pot meal of slow-cooked rice with flakes of salmon and scattered beads of salmon roe is mild yet profoundly satisfying. 231 E 9th St between Second and Third Aves (212-979-9674, robataya-ny.com). $15.

Octopus conserva at Motorino
The pizzas get top billing at chef Mathieu Palombino's Motorino, but don't overlook the small plates, including this excellent pickled octopus (available at the East Village location only). Meaty tentacles are served cold with fingerling potatoes and a bright dressing of capers, lemon juice, olive oil and parsley. 349 E 12th St between First and Second Aves (212-777-2644, motorinopizza.com). $14.

Raw-shrimp salad at Ayada
Topped with a killer spicy green sauce, this simple yet intensely flavorful raw-shrimp dish isn't from Thailand like Ayada's owners; it's a recipe they picked up working in Japan. 77-08 Woodside Ave between 77th and 78th Sts, Elmhurst, Queens (718-424-0844). $9.

Sea-urchin toast at Aldea
Chef George Mendes combines land and sea on tiny crackers: a triumph of satiny cauliflower puree, creamy urchin roe, popping pickled mustard seeds and toothsome sea lettuce. 31 W 17th St between Fifth and Sixth Aves (212-675-7223, aldearestaurant.com). $9.

Sliced fish with chili sauce at Grand Sichuan International
A platter of flour-dredged tilapia fillets comes smothered in pungent grated garlic, lightly pickled cabbage and floral, tongue-numbing Szechuan peppercorns. Bring a hankie. 229 Ninth Ave at 24th St (212-620-5200, thegrandsichuan.com). $16.50.

Wakame butter at Corton
In a nod to the seaweed butter of Brittany, chef Paul Liebrandt dries fresh wakame, turns it into a powder and then incorporates it into sweet L'Escure butter with grains of fleur de sel. It's worth parting with $85 just for a taste. 239 West Broadway between Walker and White Sts (212-219-2777, cortonnyc.com). Complimentary with an $85 or $140 prix-fixe meal.

Yuba and uni Yoshino-style at Kyo Ya
Ocean-fresh sea urchin and paper-thin tofu skin suspended in a cold, crystal-clear sauce deliver refreshing waves of brininess, underscored by earthy notes. It's surf and turf with a tofu twist. 94 E 7th St between First Ave and Ave A (212-982-4140). $12.

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