Best solo act: Chef's table at Brooklyn Fare



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Precious few culinary experiences are as intimate as they are refined. Both qualities exist in spades at ex-Bouley toque Csar Ramirez's daring feat of high-wire dining, a chef's counter in the kitchen of Brooklyn Fare grocery store. By day, Ramirez oversees the market's prepared foods; by night, he conjures an inspired, $95 multicourse dinner for a lucky dozen diners three times a week. The chef devises up to 18 nuanced dishes, from smoky foie gras macarons to Kumamoto oysters with grapefruit, crme frache and oyster-juice gele—each course pleases the eyes and stomach, and sometimes transcends both. What could make this better? It's BYOB.  200 Schermerhorn St at Hoyt St, Downtown Brooklyn (for reservations call 718-243-0050 or e-mail

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