Best ticket to Italy: Salumeria Rosi

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The giant model of Italy that runs up a wall and across the ceiling of Cesare Casella's UWS eatery might make you feel as if you're looking down from a plane during your final approach to Parma—or that outlandish Italian design is alive and well in NYC. Either way, the sculpture's composition of plaster-cast foods only confirms the obvious: You're there to eat. Platters of tissue-thin slices of delectable cured meats and the miniplates of Casella's signature Tuscan cooking let you maximize your gastro-tourism. It may be a quick trip, but it's one worth making. Salumeria Rosi 283 Amsterdam Ave between 73rd and 74th Sts (212-877-4800)

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