Thu Jan 10 2008
Photograph: Beth Levendis
Good egg We always join the queue of devotees at Union Square’s Knoll Krest Farm stand, a natural poultry and egg farm in Dutchess County, for our weekly egg quotient. Last fall, Knoll Krest added pasta made with the surfeit of pullet eggs laid by the farm’s preteen Rhode Island Red chickens. The pullets’ diminutive stature makes the small eggs a tough sell, but they’re tastier than their larger siblings—egg quality generally declines as hens age—and are perfect for pasta. To that end, Elizabeth Ryan, who owns Breezy Hill Orchards (a nearby fruit and baked-goods operation), partnered with her Knoll Krest neighbors in a joint venture to make fettuccine, and spent months experimenting. We’re charmed by the results: pasta with strands of varying lengths and the occasional ragged edge. For her flavored varieties, Ryan peruses the market for inspiration. Beets tint the ruby-red fettuccine, and spinach, pumpkin and carrot pastas are in the works, as are ravioli. The noodles cook quickly—three or four minutes in boiling salted water—and are best with a light sauce. We like the plain pasta with a sauté of chicken livers, wine and sage, and the beet pasta retains its flavor when tossed with bacon, shallots and wilted greens. And, if like us, you can’t get enough of Knoll Krest’s eggs, cook one over your pasta for good measure. Knoll Krest Farm pasta, $3 for eight ounces of plain, $4 for flavored; available Wednesdays and Saturdays at the Union Square Greenmarket.
Also see: Stacey Harwood's pasta recipes
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