Dinner at the movies

In time for the NYC Food Film Festival, we test-drive gastro-cinemas that are breaking free of the popcorn box.

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  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Grilled cheese and tomato soup at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Lambretta at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Grilled cheese and tomato soup at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Lambretta at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Grilled cheese and tomato soup at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Lambretta at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Grilled cheese and tomato soup at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Lambretta at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Grilled cheese and tomato soup at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Lambretta at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Grilled cheese and tomato soup at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Lambretta at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Grilled cheese and tomato soup at IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    IndieScreen

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Indie Screen, CineClub

    Lambretta at IndieScreen

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Indie Screen, CineClub

IndieScreen

Nitehawk Cinema | reRun Gastropub Theater | Indie Food and Wine | IndieScreen

IndieScreen


289 Kent Ave at South 2nd St, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (347-227-7522)

Occupying a massive space in South Williamsburg's warehouse district, this cinema-restaurant hybrid represents the collaborative efforts of restaurateur Anna Popermhem (Planet Thailand), architect Krzysztof Pogorzelski and Marco Ursino, founder of the Brooklyn Film Festival. The massive, industrial space is offbeat, with exposed structural elements, random art installations (including an eerie piece by local mixed-media sculptor Jon Kessler) and a blue, bottom-lit bar. The indie films ($12) that play in the comfy 93-seat theater are eclectic, with plenty of classics and foreign imports in the mix.

How it works: There is a restaurant and bar area with a full menu, where you can sit to eat and drink before a screening (just don't expect the servers to remind you that your show is about to start). Last week, an abbreviated version of the menu launched with some of the more portable items (chicken satay, shitake-and-rutabaga spring rolls) available to take into the theater.

Food: The grub lacks focus, with global influences—antipasti, Japanese- and Thai-inflected tapas, a hot dog in a spring roll—that smack of an exuberant but inexperienced kitchen. A Mexican dog ($8) with sauted jalapeos, onions and Manchego was tasty enough, but too sloppy to hold together. And buffalo-ricotta meatballs ($8), slathered in a bizarre red curry--marinara sauce, were lukewarm and dry. The safest bet is a Roman riff on a classic grilled cheese ($9), with bacon, tomato and yellow cheddar wedged between a pliant but bland Piadina flatbread (the accompanying cream of tomato soup tasted mostly of sweet tomato puree).

Drinks: Unless you want a cocktail inspired by tiramisu, skip the vodka-heavy drinks in favor of a serviceable lineup of international wines by the glass and craft beers ($5--$6), including Kelso on tap and Sixpoint tall boys.

Bottom line: Indiescreen feels ambitious in intent but amateurish in execution. That said, it's barely a month old—with some tweaks to the kitchen, plus management's plans to allow drinking in the theater, it could be a contender.

Final grade:

B-

 

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