More locavore restaurants and bars
Find the best of the summer Greenmarket at these seasonally-inspired spots.
Mon Jun 13 2011
Quaint, quiet Applewood is a beacon of civility among Southern Park Slope's burgeoning restaurant scene. The farmhouse decor (yellow wainscoted walls, potted herbs on each table) helps foster the agrarian theme. Ditto the menu, which lists the provenance of most ingredients (New York duck, New Hampshire pork, Atlantic striped bass, etc.). As is standard for market-driven eateries, the menu changes often: You might encounter pillowy gnudi sharing the plate with morels and horseradish, or a neat square of braised pork belly given a sharp, acidic note via leaves of sorrel. Less virtuous: a selection of local beers and thoughtful cocktails like the refreshing tarragon Tom Collins. 501 11th St at Seventh Ave, Park Slope, Brooklyn (718-788-1810). Subway: F, G to Seventh Ave. Tue--Fri 5--11pm; Sat 10am--2pm, 5--11pm; Sun 10am--3pm. Average main course: $22.
Savoy loyalists can migrate over to chef-restaurateur Peter Hoffman's more casual seasonal-eats tavern, where farmhouse chic prevails in the dining room (vintage tools adorn the walls) and on the menu. Gastropub fare—like the pleasantly gamey grass-fed hamburger or pork jowl nuggets, frozen in a crisp jacket of batter—is uniformly solid. Veggies shine too: Baby cauliflower gratin is layered with leeks and Gruyre, and the exemplary brussels sprouts are slicked with cherry butter and served with shallot puree. Desserts uphold the pub end of things: Conclude with a creamy stout float. 190 Ave B between 11th and 12th Sts (212-388-1990). Subway: L to First Ave. Mon--Thu 6--11pm; Fri 6pm--midnight; Sat noon--3pm, 6pm--midnight; Sun 11:30am--3:30pm, 6--10pm. Average main course: $16.
More than a mere crusader for sustainability, Dan Barber is also one of the most talented cooks in town. He builds his oft-changing menu around whatever's at its peak on local farms, including his Westchester agricultural center (home to a sibling restaurant). During fresh pea season bright green infuses every inch of the menu, from a velvety spring pea soup to sous-vide duck breast as soft as sushi fanned over a bed of sugar snap peas. Start to finish, there's a garden on every plate—from buttery ravioli filled with tangy greens to just-picked cherries under a sweet cobbler crust. 75 Washington Pl between Sixth Ave and Washington Sq West (212-539-1776). Subway: A, C, E, B, D, F, M to W 4th St. Mon--Sat 5:30--11pm, Sun 5:30--10pm. Average main course: $28.
Northern Spy Food Co.
This farm-to-table restaurant serves locally sourced meals at reasonable prices. Chef Nathan Foot's simple, frequently changing menu is based almost entirely on what's in season: A "chicken and egg" sandwich combines pan-crisped dark meat, zingy chimichurri, arugula and a poached egg on Sullivan Street bread. Toothsome pastured pork loin might share the plate with rich pork jus and a "green saut" of leeks, green cabbage and brussels sprout leaves. Rounding out the locavore experience is a pantry filled with to-go items like McClure's pickles and salted caramels. 511 E 12th St between Aves A and B (212-228-5100). Subway: L to First Ave. Mon--Thu, Sun 11am--11pm; Fri, Sat 11am--midnight. Average main course: $12.
Every New York neighborhood has an arbiter of local goods, and on the UWS, Bill Telepan is it. His restaurant, appointed in shades of eggshell and celery green, is a paean to what's in season. A gratifying appetizer of a runny egg atop a fried green tomato slice and farmhouse cheddar cheese is all country simplicity, as is an entre of juicy, salty roasted chicken with egg noodles and wild mushrooms. 72 W 69th St at Columbus Ave (212-580-4300). Subway: B, C to 72nd St; 1 to 66th St--Lincoln Ctr. Mon, Tue 5--11pm; Wed--Fri 11:30am--2:30pm, 5--11pm; Sat 11am--2:30pm, 5--11:30pm; Sun 11am--3pm, 5--10:30pm. Average main course: $28.
The entrance to this taxidermy-strewn saloon is hidden behind an old phone booth inside Crif Dogs. Pick up the receiver and a hostess opens the back wall of the booth. Inside, barkeeps like Jeff Bell and Karen Fu offer seasonally inspired cocktail creations like the frothy Judgment Day, a pleasing mix of citrus, allspice and floral St. Germain. The old-fashioned—made with smoky, bacon-infused bourbon and maple syrup—has become the joint's best-known drink. The staff is happy to talk you through any libation on the menu, or suggest an haute dog brought in from next door. It's that kind of dedication that makes getting in worth the effort. 113 St. Marks Pl between First Ave and Ave A (212-614-0386). Subway: L to First Ave, 6 to Astor Pl. Mon--Thu, Sun 6pm--2am; Fri, Sat 6pm--4am. Average drink: $12.
In this earnest Cobble Hill beer hall, owner Dave Liatti (a former engineer for Sixpoint Craft Ales) has created a real nerve center for the Brooklyn brew scene. The 20-plus taps are devoted to local craft beers (Ommegang, Barrier Brewing), small-batch wines (Red Hook Winery) and kombucha, and Liatti curates a steady flow of events connecting patrons with the purveyors. Stop by for discussions, cooking classes and film screenings, or just settle into a communal table with your crew. It's easy to watch the hours pass as you drink your way around the region and nosh shareable plates, made with Kings County ingredients like Salvatore Bklyn ricotta and Brooklyn Cured country pt. 61 Bergen St between Boerum Pl and Smith St, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn (no phone). Subway: F, G to Bergen St. Mon--Thu 5pm--midnight; Fri, Sat noon--1am; Sun noon--midnight. Average drink: $6. Cash only.