Morningside Heights
Legendary grocer Steven Jenkins, Fairway Market's tastemaker and author of the recently published The Food Life, gives TONY an insider's tour of his 'hood's best eats.
Thu Jul 10 2008
Photographs: Sasha Okshteyn
1. Hungarian Pastry Shop “This place served very good, strong coffee before everyone knew that was the coffee you were supposed to drink,” says Jenkins of this 43-year-old shelter for flaneurs and aspiring bohemians. He orders his Americano with schlag ($3.50) and an oversize pastry ($3.75)—today he chooses the creamy chocolate éclair. “It’s really honest, good cheap stuff.” 1030 Amsterdam Ave between 110th and 111th Sts (212-866-4230)
2. V & T Pizza Restaurant “This place is so Columbia U,” sighs Jenkins, as we step into the prototypical red-sauce pizzeria. “This is really old-style bad Italian cooking, but the pizza is really good.” Jenkins takes his (starting at $10) topped with onions and spinach, but concedes, “It’s not about the food. It’s about the fact that it’s got a neon sign and it’s been here for 60 years. Imagine how many times Abbie Hoffman and Jerry Rubin have been here!” 1024 Amsterdam Ave between 110th and 111th Sts (212-663-1708)
Steven Jenkins tucks in at Bombay Frankie.
3. Bombay Frankie It’s hard to say what impresses Jenkins more about this purveyor of frankies, a Bombay street-food wrap—his preferred variety ($5), stuffed with spiced lamb, tomatoes, onions and a cilantro-mint-and-yogurt chutney, or its second identity as a nightlife canteen. “What’s amazing about this place is that it’s hooked together to a gay bar [Suite]. It’s genius.” 994 Amsterdam Ave between 109th and 110th Sts (212-666-1500)
4. Absolute Bagels “I’ve been doing this for 32 years and I’m telling you, this is the best bagel made,” says Jenkins, extolling the hand-rolled, boiled bagels ($12 for a baker’s dozen) at this family operation. Jenkins takes home his favorite flavor, rye—onion if they’re out—and eats it with Fairway’s house cream cheese and smoked salmon. “Anyone who tells you that H & H bagels are their favorite has no business having an opinion.” 2788 Broadway between 107th and 108th Sts (212-932-2052)
5. Community Food & Juice Although this wholesome eatery hasn’t even been open a year, it’s already risen to the top of Jenkins’s short list. “This is the neighborhood pride and joy. I’ve ordered everything on the menu, and it’s always difficult to make up my mind.” Most frequently, he returns to the rice bowl (starting at $9), a healthy blend of grains, assorted veggies and a protein of the diner’s choosing. 2893 Broadway between 112th and 113th Sts (212-665-2800)
6. Silver Moon Bakery “The woman who runs this place goes all the way back to my Dean & DeLuca days,” Jenkins says of Judith Norell, the owner of the area’s most refined bakeshop. As it’s both a patisserie and a boulangerie, Jenkins likes to serve their seasonal fruit tarts (starting at $27) to dinner guests, and always keeps their baguettes ($2.60) and loaves of multigrain ($5.50) and mocha-raisin ($6) breads in the house. 2740 Broadway at 105th St (212-866-4717)
7. Mondel Chocolates “Get ready for a real olfactory experience,” Jenkins says as we enter the sweet-smelling candy shop, open since 1943. “The dark chocolate-almond bark [$23.99/pound] is my favorite substance besides Iberian ham. It’s spectacular.” 2913 Broadway between 113th and 114th Sts (212-864-2111)
/>/>/>/>/>/>Share your thoughts
77° 