Most ambitious bar food: Ardesia

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The superior international wine list at this bar vins is reason enough to visit, but the real surprise comes with a food menu that's far better than it has to be. Chef Amorette Casaus's roster of small plates includes a rarely attempted house-made mortadella flavored with coriander seed, while special dinners highlight top-notch ingredients such as a multicourse tasting of the exceptional Mangalista pig breed. Eats this good could make you forget you came to drink. Ardesia 510 W 52nd St between Tenth and Eleventh Aves (212-247-9191)

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