Most seductive use of carbs: Convivio

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Chef Michael White does a lot of things well, but when it comes to starches, he makes us feel all tingly. His homemade pastas are perfectly resilient and toothsome, and delicate rice balls hold together just enough to contain the molten cheese within. In some cases, he displays true sorcery: He roasts baby Yukon potatoes in olive oil, presses them into thin disks and then roasts them again until the outer skin forms a fragile golden crust. Yes! Convivio 45 Tudor City Pl at 42nd St (212-599-5045)

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