Pop-up restaurants storm NYC

For the past few years pop-up restaurants—evanescent eateries lasting a day, a week, maybe a month—have been big business in Los Angeles, Paris and London. Now, finally New York is getting in on the act. And with so many permanent restaurants still struggling in a shaky economy, so many diners quickly bored and so many chefs eager to experiment, the timing couldn't be better. TONY takes a look at two new projects that best embrace the pop-up's whimsical spirit.

What Happens When

At his long-term pop-up What Happens When, Dovetail chef John Fraser gives the New York food scene a theatricality we've been missing. The project, a nine-month run in the Nolita space that once housed Le Jardin bistro, is a performance piece, restaurant and art installation rolled into one. At the start of each month a revolving collective of musicians, designers and artists swaps out the decor, lighting and soundtrack—all pegged to the same seasonal theme as the food and drinks.

The experimental and collaborative nature—the place was funded in part by Kickstarter investors—lends dinner here a subversive air, like an underground party in the far reaches of Bushwick. But even though this is lower Manhattan, and the place is open to anyone who calls up to book, the seat-of-the-pants setup—tight quarters, hypercasual service, disposable furnishings—still feels like part of the fun.

For the first "movement," which ended on March 1, the slim space was transformed into a sort of 3-D blueprint, its black walls numbered and signed (APPROVED BY JOHN FRASER). There was a winter chill to the silver-gold lighting, to the sometimes-grating abstract noise on the speakers, to the food's Nordic inflections and wines that were all selected from cool northern climes.

But while there was an endearing amateur quality to the service and setting, in the first incarnation and in the current one—its little red birdhouses and arts-and-craft forest lasting through March 29—Fraser's food in both cases was professional as ever.

While plenty of corners are cut here to keep the overhead low—the place settings are fetched self-serve from drawers under the tables—the cooking goes a long way toward justifying the $58-per-person price of admission.

On a recent visit to the pop-up's second incarnationto the pop-up's third incarnation, the prix-fixe menu—loosely inspired by Where the Wild Things Are—included a variety of woodland creatures prepared in dishes both playful and elegant. To start there were tiny tempura-fried frog legs falling off the bone, atop warm minty potato salad. Complexly spiced hand-cut venison tartare—in a zingy jerk rub—came with pickled cabbage and gooseberries, sophisticated and daring with its smear of thick coffee on the plate underneath. Multiple pig parts anchored one deeply satisfying entre, an earthy amalgam of grilled belly, rolled loin and succulent head meat (in a crispy croquette), all served over lentils and escarole greens.

Though you won't need any cajoling to order dessert here—the salted-caramel crme brle served on the first menu, and rich praline crisp served on the second, are included in the price—the elegant sweets, displayed on a roving cart, may catch your eye the minute you sit down to dinner.

Like everything here, they change by the month. With two surprising and fun shifts already realized, we're eager to see what happens next at What Happens When.

What Happens When 25 Cleveland Pl between Kenmare and Spring Sts (212-925-8310). Subway: 6 to Spring St. Tue--Sun 5:30--11pm. Average prix fixe: $58.

Maharlika 351 E 12th St between First and Second Aves (maharlikanyc.com). Subway: L to First Ave. Sat, Sun 11am--3:30pm. Average main course: $13.

What Happens When 25 Cleveland Pl between Kenmare and Spring Sts (212-925-8310). Subway: 6 to Spring St. Tue--Sun 5:30--11pm. Average prix fixe: $58.

Maharlika 351 E 12th St between First and Second Aves (maharlikanyc.com). Subway: L to First Ave. Sat, Sun 11am--3:30pm. Average main course: $13.