Restaurants open late in Chinatown and Little Italy
Wed Oct 28 2009
Lively groups munching on generously portioned bistro fare tempt passersby at this comfortable cream-colored brasserie. In addition to French standards like steak with garlicky fries and herbed butter, Latin flair rears its head with dishes such as sea scallops with blue-cheese polenta. 14 Spring St at Elizabeth St (212-219-9542, barmarche.com) Mon--Thu, Sun 5pm--midnight; Fri, Sat 5pm--1am.
The sophomore venture from Sfoglia owners Ron and Colleen Suhanosky suffers from a crisis of both vision and execution. Only its beautifully crusty sourdough bread manages to live up to its forerunner’s standards. 98 Kenmare St between Cleveland Pl and Mulberry St (212-274-9898, civettarestaurant.com) Mon--Wed, Sun 6--11:45pm; Thu--Sat 6pm--12:45am.
New York Noodle Town
Good to its name, this restaurant delivers panfried selections (boiled angel-hair noodles that are lightly fried for a crunchy-soft texture) or softer preparations (served floating in flavorful chicken broth) with roasted pork, duck, chicken or ribs. 28 Bowery at Bayard St (212-349-0923) Daily 9am--4am.
Chic couples and the Soho working class sit in curved red banquettes in this cavernous subterranean brasserie. There’s Soviet snacks like spinach-and-cheese piroshki and smoked sturgeon scattered with dill and a dollop of crme frache. Caviar is, of course, found in various guises, including a Wolfgang Puck--like application atop smoked-salmon pizza. 281 Lafayette St between Houston and Prince Sts (212-226-4944, pravdany.com) Mon--Wed 5pm--1am; Thu 5pm--2am; Fri, Sat 5pm--3am; Sun 6pm--1am.
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