The best new pizzas in NYC: Tonda
TONY eats through the city's newest pies.
Wed Jun 3 2009
RECOMMENDED: Complete New York pizza guide
235 E 4th St between Aves A and B (212-254-2900)
You can feel the 1,000-degree heat emanating from Tonda’s peak-of-geekiness oven—outfitted with rotating stone floors and stocked with smoldering wood—from across the dining room of this East Village pizzeria. The man guarding this inferno is Michele Sceral, a graduate of the venerable Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani. Ever the apt pupil, Sceral displays a slavish attention to detail: The tomatoes are San Marzano specimens; the cheese is a milky, low-water Italian import (buffalo is available for an additional $5). Even the H20 used in the dough has been considered—Sceral uses filtered water, which he says helps control overbubbling of the crust.
The pies, if not your sweat glands, are the better for all that heat. They emerge from their turns in the oven (each pie makes two to three 30-second rotations) with a crisp yet elastic crust. The low moisture of the mozzarella keeps the cheese from pooling, and the sauce expertly balances sugar and acid. Sceral is a hard-line traditionalist, so take your cues from him and stick to the classics when ordering. The Margherita pie is exemplary, but more adventurous varieties (like a salty combination of broccoli rabe and sausage) are less pristine.