The best winter stews

Korean, French, Austrian and other global warmers.

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  • #23 beef belly flat-noodle "soup" at Grand Bo Ky

  • Ribollita at Hearth

  • Oxtail stew at the Islands

  • Budae jungol at Seoul Garden

  • Cassoulet Toulousain de la Maison at La Sirene

  • Beef goulash at Cafe Katja

  • Gumbo at the Green Table

  • Yose hot pot at Matsuri

  • Special Yemeni fateh with lamb at Yemen Caf

  • Pork and preserved-egg congee at Congee

#23 beef belly flat-noodle "soup" at Grand Bo Ky

Grand Bo Ky

#23 beef belly flat-noodle “soup” at Grand Bo Ky
This Chinese-Vietnamese noodle spot refers to this massive bowl of wide rice noodles as soup, but it’s really a simple stew: spiced with curry powder and thick with chunks of beef and carrots. Be sure to top it off with the house-made chili sauce. 214 Grand St between Elizabeth and Mott Sts (212-219-9228). $5.

Ribollita

Ribollita at Hearth
Tuscans discovered long ago that soup could be cooked down with bread and beans and transformed into something even more satisfying: vegetable stew. At Hearth, the ribollita includes black kale, croutons and bean puree. 403 E 12th St at First Ave (646-602-1300). $10.

Oxtail stew

Oxtail stew at the Islands
Oxtails don’t look particularly meaty, but they give up super-rich flavor when cooked for a long time. Sample them in this classic Caribbean dish. 803 Washington Ave between Lincoln Pl and Eastern Pkwy, Prospect Heights, Brooklyn (718-398-3575). $12.

Budae jungol

Budae jungol at Seoul Garden
This Korean casserole boasts a tangy beef broth loaded with kimchi, noodles, rice cake, beef and—wait for it—Spam. 34 W 32nd St between Fifth Ave and Broadway, second floor (212-736-9002). $35.95.

Cassoulet Toulousain

Cassoulet Toulousain de la Maison at La Sirene
Creamy cannellini beans come with tender duck confit, garlicky pork sausage and thick bacon in this exemplary version of Southern France’s cold-weather staple. All of it’s basted with duck fat and topped with bread crumbs for some crunch. 558 Broome St between Sixth Ave and Varick St (212-925-3061). $31.50.

Goulash

Beef goulash at Cafe Katja
The Austrian-style beef dish at Cafe Katja is slow-cooking incarnate: Meat and onions are stewed with stock for four hours, then made aromatic with spicy paprika, marjoram and a bit of lemon zest. You like gravy? So does that side of buttered spaetzle. 79 Orchard St between Broome and Grand Sts (212-219-9545). $17.

Gumbo

Gumbo at the Green Table
This frequent special is the only NYC gumbo we can get behind. NOLA transplant Brent Sims knows his way around a roux, plus he cooks with what’s in season. This time of year, that means a bowl packed with house-made sausage and chicken or roasted duck. Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave at 16th St (212-741-6623). $18.

Yose

Yose hot pot at Matsuri
Chef Tadashi Ono’s special menu of homestyle hot pots includes this steaming version known as yose: a sweet-smoky dashi broth piled high with head-on shrimp, sliced snapper, chicken, clams, tofu, noodles and a forest floor’s worth of shiitake and enoki mushrooms. Maritime Hotel, 369 W 16th St at Ninth Ave (212-243-6400). $27.

fateh

Special Yemeni fateh with lamb at Yemen Caf
This filling stew is Yemen’s answer to chicken and dumplings: savory lamb gravy studded with strips of flatbread. Bring a friend—it’s big enough for two. 176 Atlantic Ave between Clinton and Court Sts, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn (718-834-9533). $16.

Congee

Pork and preserved-egg congee at Congee
Rice cooked in water doesn’t sound exciting, but this porridge has a clean taste and velvety texture. The pork and preserved egg make it funky enough to entice your taste buds. 98 Bowery between Grand and Hester Sts (212-965-5028). $3.75.

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