Well seasoned

Akhtar Nawab

Photograph: Beth Levendis

Akhtar Nawab, chef-owner, Elettaria

Gastrogeeks may know him from the East Village eatery E.U., where chef Nawab was cooking until last month. But to build a name bankable enough to warrant the recently opened Elettaria (33 W 8th St between Fifth and Sixth Aves, 212-677-3833), the 35-year-old toque’s first solo project, Nawab toiled for eight years under Tom Colicchio—first at Gramercy Tavern, then at Craft and finally as chef de cuisine at Craftbar.

While Colicchio built his menus on painstakingly sourced comestibles, at Elettaria, Nawab’s brand of ingredients-worship revolves around tongue-tickling flavors such as fenugreek, coconut and tamarind.

“Tom would always say, ‘Simple isn’t so simple.’ There’s a lot of effort that goes into everything,” says Nawab, whose composed plates depart from Colicchio’s “build-your-own” meals. “I had a blast working at Craftbar,” says Nawab. “I wanted to re-create the fun aspect and the seriousness of the food in an environment that was completely laid-back.” Another trait shared with his showman mentor: Elettaria’s open kitchen is food-as-performance at its peak. —JR

NEXT: Josh Eden

Josh Eden

Photograph: Beth Levendis

Josh Eden, chef-owner, Shorty's .32

The meteoric rise of certain chefs hasn’t altered Josh Eden’s view of how restaurants work. “This is one of the last industries around where you truly have to pay your dues to get to the top,” says the 12-year vet of the Jean-Georges Vongerichten empire. “I like to think that some of the success of [Shorty’s .32] has to do with the fact that I did things the old-fashioned way.”

Eden left 66 last year, not to apply his haute pedigree to another temple of fine dining but to open a neighborhood bistro. At Shorty’s .32 (199 Prince St between MacDougal and Sullivan Sts, 212-375-8275), burgers and simple roasted chicken stand in for the delicate preparations that are Vongerichten hallmarks. “I express myself through technique and ingredients,” he says.

But the JGV influence is there. Even his meat-and-potatoes dishes demonstrate superlative skill: A New York strip anointed with a glossy jus and jewellike cippollini onions is far more elegant than it has to be. Like most of Eden’s staples, it offers a glimpse into his three-star past. —JR

NEXT: César Ramirez

César Ramirez

Photograph: Beth Levendis

César Ramirez, chef-partner, Bar Blanc

“Don’t call me a chef, I’m a craftsman,” says César Ramirez. Like many artisans, he’s been plying his trade for years. Originally from Chicago, Ramirez developed his love of cooking at home. “I grew up eating pig’s feet and brains,” he says. While sous chef at Chicago’s Tru in 1999, he met David Bouley, who offered him his first job in New York. Ramirez accepted, eventually becoming chef de cuisine at Bouley. Traveling with the chef in Japan changed Ramirez’s outlook on cooking: “The respect they have for their food… It’s so clean, pure and simple.”

At Bar Blanc (142 W 10th St between Greenwich Ave and Waverly Pl, 212-255-2330), which Ramirez opened last year with Bouley vets Didier Palange and Kiwon Standen, this aesthetic comes through in pristine dishes that seamlessly blend international flavors. Ramirez keeps the menu short, and the limited number of seats allows him to use time-consuming methods that are less practical in high-volume restaurants. Has he considered TV? Lucky for us, no: “For me, cooking is much more than that. If I can’t create what I want, what’s the point?” —DG

NEXT: Andy Boggs and Stephanie Schneider

Andy Boggs and Stephanie Schneider

Photograph: Beth Levendis

Andy Boggs and Stephanie Schneider, co-owners, Huckleberry Bar

These two first met while working the bar at Danny Meyer’s Blue Smoke—he was a bartender, she a manager and beverage director. By then, they were both already Meyer stalwarts (their combined experience: 11 years). “Working for [Meyer] taught us that long-term success is founded on good hospitality, careful hiring of staff and the need to take care of your community,” says Boggs.

At their new venture, Huckleberry Bar (588 Grand St between Leonard and Lorimer Sts, Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-218-8555), the duo applies this customer-first approach in a Brooklyn setting, while placing a premium on quality products. The idea of being a “huckleberry,” or the right person for the job, is central to their vision. “Higher-end restaurants don’t often let you be yourself,” Schneider explains. “We want to relate to the people we are serving.” —DG

NEXT: Jonny Cohen and Michael Lagnese

Jonny Cohen and Michael Lagnese

Photograph: Beth Levendis

Jonny Cohen and Michael Lagnese, co-owners 8th Street Wine Cellar

"We do the basics really well," responds the barkeep when asked for a list of cocktails. It's the prevailing sentiment at Jonny Cohen and Michael Lagnese's eight-month-old neighborhood wine bar (8th Street Wine Cellar; 28 W 8th St between Fifth Ave and Macdougal St, 212-260-9463), and an appropriate one given their pedigrees. The pair worked at Union Square Cafe for 10 and 12 years respectively before teaming up to go it on their own. "There was only so much more we could learn at that point," says Lagnese of the Danny Meyer stalwart, lauded for its excellent service. The two of them used their expertise to open this basement bar with a tight, global wine list (75 bottles and 20 by the glass), artisanal beers and a menu of straightforward, seasonal snacks.

The warm service is pure Meyer: A small team keeps tabs on the dense weekend crowds, flagging empty seats for patrons lingering near the bar and fielding all manner of vino-related questions. "Union Square was really good at educating the staff about the wine so that they weren't faking it," says Cohen. "Twice a week we open up one of the bottles on our list and discuss it. We want our people to know what they are talking about too."

But the real USC legacy here is less quantifiable. "There was a feeling you would get when you were at the Cafe that you were part of a family and the staff actually wanted you to be there," says Cohen. "At 8th Street we want you to feel like we want to have a glass of wine with you. And sometimes we will."

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