Breakfast sandwiches: Five great riffs on a brunch classic in NYC
We’re sure the venerable Earl of Sandwich would approve of these creative riffs on the breakfast sandwich.
Tue May 29 2012
Defer your hangover with these great breakfast sandwiches, which run from Fort Defiance’s egg and ham sandwiched in a biscuit, to Roberta’s elevated version with sablefish.
Roberta’s
- Price band: 1/4
- Critics choice
A silky hunk of rich sablefish, lightly smoked for an hour over alder wood, is the star of this morning treat. Toasted halves of a house-made English muffin cradle the opalescent slab, along with paper-thin slices of crisp cucumber and a slick of aioli zipped up with Meyer lemon juice and zest. $15.
- 261 Moore St, (between Bogart and White Sts)
Fort Defiance
- Price band: 2/4
- Critics choice
In this breakfast classic, tender flaky biscuits laced with aged cheddar hug rosy slips of Pino’s Prime Meats ham and a runny fried organic egg from Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative. Sweet-and-spicy homemade jalapeño jam cuts through the salt and richness, bringing this Southern comfort sammie over the top. $7.
- 365 Van Brunt St, (at Dikeman St)
Mile End Sandwich
- Critics choice
Bacon might not be a traditional Jewish deli ingredient (to say the least), but co-owners Noah and Rae Bernamoff, who grew up eating the stuff, deploy a damn fine version for this morning munchie. Berkshire pork belly, cured in-house with brown sugar and coriander, is smoked for six hours and divided into thick, salty slabs. The meat joins pungent aged Quebec cheddar and a crisp fried egg between slices of caraway-spiced rye sourdough—a bold, tasty counterpoint to the city’s ubiquitous egg-on-a-roll variants. $9.
- 53 Bond St, (between Bowery and Lafayette St)
Northern Spy
- Price band: 2/4
- Critics choice
Chomp into this locavore brunch favorite—made with chicken thighs and eggs from Lancaster, Pennsylvania—and marvel as the gorgeous yolks gush into a powdery Orwasher’s roll. The juicy dark meat is offset by a zippy chimichurri sauce—an enlivening mix of fresh parsley, spicy chili flakes and bright white wine. $12.
- 511 E 12th St, (between Aves A and B)
Smith Canteen
- Price band: 1/4
At Kerry Diamond and Robert Newton’s sunny Brooklyn café, a buttery everything croissant—inspired by the better-known bagel studded with salt, sesame, mustard and poppy seeds; and garlic—is stuffed with fluffy scrambled eggs. The pair piles on the richness with oozing New York cheddar and sweet slices of mildly smoked Berkshire ham. $6.
- 343 Smith St, (at Carroll St)
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