Ramen vanguard: Japanese noodles with a twist

This autumn, chefs Ivan Orkin and Yuji Haraguchi will give ramen noodles a modern makeover.

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Rabid food fetishists have been lining up at Smorgasburg for ramen burgers. But the strand-bun-and-patty combo isn’t the only dish pushing noodle boundaries. This fall, a pair of chefs up the ante on ramen noodles with much-anticipated restaurants.

RECOMMENDED: Full list of NYC restaurants opening this fall

  • Photograph: Daniel Krieger

    Shio ramen at Ivan Ramen

  • Photograph: Daniel Krieger

    Vegetable tsukemen at Ivan Ramen

  • Photograph: Daniel Krieger

    Shredded pork sushi at Ivan Ramen

  • Photograph: Daniel Krieger

    Pork meatballs at Ivan Ramen

  • Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Crab mazemen at Okonomi

  • Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Soba maltagliati at Okonomi

  • Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Ramen cracker and bonito tartare at Okonomi

Photograph: Daniel Krieger

Shio ramen at Ivan Ramen

Shio Ramen with hanjuku tamago topping at Ivan Ramen

Ivan Ramen

Ivan Orkin may have honed his craft in Japan, but the chef’s dishes don’t always adhere to tradition. Take the noodles—a custom blend of rye and wheat—featured in bowls like his signature shio, with a chicken-and-dashi broth, a Japanese sea-salt blend, pork belly and a six-minute egg. When the virtuoso opens his first stateside outpost, you’ll find more-outré dishes, like garlic-infused mazemen and pulled pork musubi. No phone yet.

  1. 25 Clinton St between E Houston and Stanton Sts
  2. Early October
Crab mazemen at Okonomi

Okonomi

Yuji Haraguchi isn’t exactly a fresh-faced newbie—he started introducing New Yorkers to mazemen at pop-ups in 2012. But when the self-trained toque finally opens his brick-and-mortar venture, he’ll show locals a new hybrid, remixing the ramen-ya with a tasting-menu restaurant. Haraguchi will man the six-seat counter with Roberta’s alum Tara Norvell, turning out East-meets-West creations (like uni ravioli and ramen crackers with bonito tartare) as part of a nightly changing chef’s menu. No phone yet.

  1. 150 Ainslie St between Leonard and Lorimer Sts, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
  2. Late November


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