Rosemary's Cedric Tovar opens new restaurant Tessa

French-Italian restaurant Tessa brings house-made pastas and Mediterranean wines to the Upper West Side

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  • Photograph: Thomas Schauer

    Monkfish at Tessa

  • Photograph: Thomas Schauer

    Grilled Lamb Porchetta at Tessa

  • Photograph: Thomas Schauer

    Razor Clam Escabèche at Tessa

  • Photograph: Thomas Schauer

    Tessa

Photograph: Thomas Schauer

Monkfish at Tessa

Cedric Tovar turned out updated French at Bobo and splashy Italian at Rosemary’s—now the Alsatian chef marries the two genres for this uptown tavern. The 1,750-square-foot digs are industrial—subway-grate ceilings, gunmetal stools—but the food is rustic Mediterranean: grilled rouget with fennel marmalade and venison-loin carpaccio with caper-leek chimichurri. Pastas are house-made, like the linguine for the cacio e pepe, invigorated with Tasmanian pepper and pickled lemon zest. Drew Shields—who spent time popping bottles for Daniel Boulud and David Burke—cruises the Mediterranean coast for the 60-bottle wine list, offering prosecco and south-of-France varietals. 349 Amsterdam Ave between 76th and 77th Sts (212-390-1974)



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