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Tired parents who want to bask in the fresh-faced glow of NYU students and recall their carefree collegiate days should head to the Smith, a new venture from the folks behind Jane and the Neptune Room. The menu reads like an omnivore’s random list of favorite foods—fried calamari, lamb schnitzel, seared tuna niçoise salad, ricotta gnocchi, vegetable bibimbap and four cuts of steak. There’s no cohesion, but somehow it works.
Though the Victorian nudes on the walls might make kids giggle and the coed restroom has no diaper-changing amenities, families will feel welcome here. It’s not just because the acoustics drown out even a colicky baby’s wails, or that the menu is loaded with kid fare like mac and cheese and spaghetti and meatballs. We’ll be back for the beer-battered string beans (pictured)—and the pleasure of watching our son actually enjoy eating his vegetables.
Dessert choices are pleasingly simple—eight kinds of sundaes, like the Pink Pussy Cat, an intoxicating mix of red velvet cake, strawberry ice cream, fresh strawberries and whipped cream. The weekend brings not only brunch but also a Sunday dinner special worth leaving the comfort of your apartment for: a bacon-and-cheddar-topped burger with fries and a pint of beer for 12 bucks.
—Lisa Moran
55 Third Ave between 10th and 11th Sts (212-420-9800, thesmithnyc.com)
