This conventional hotel canteen, a dining annex in Frederick Lesort's eurotrashy Opia lounge, churns out competent Parisian standards suitable for weary travelers, plus a few incongruous dishes—from the comfort food canon, decadent mac and cheese; from Japan, sushi. The food, like the white tablecloth setting, is inoffensive but forgettable: rich, chewy hanger steak with rosemary-truffle fries, flakey roasted cod smothered in fennel and black olives. Though jet-lagged tourists may find sustenance at André's, in restaurant-saturated midtown, you can certainly do better.
Renaissance Hotel, 130 E 57th St
|Cross street:||between Park and Lexington Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri 7–11am, 11:30am–3:30pm, 5:30–11pm; Sat 8–11am, 11:30am–4pm, 5:30–11pm; Sun 8–11am, 11:30am–4pm|
|Transport:||Subway: N, R to Lexington Ave–59th St; 4, 5, 6 to 59th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $27. AmEx, MC, V|
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