The West Village has almost as many forgettable Italian restaurants as Little Italy. This eatery on the Hudson—replacing the oft-empty Uguale—seems to promise a significant detour from the middling norm. The space is inviting; it’s an old-fashioned candlelit dining room. But the prices are high and the food is mediocre at best. You’ll get a warm and heartfelt reception followed by a parade of preamble nibbles (bruschetta, fried zucchini, Parmesan hunks). Stop right there and you might walk away happy. The generic food that follows will dispel any illusion you’ve uncovered a gem. The carpaccio is a big soppy mess. Shrimp Fra Diavolo has kick but no flavor. Capellini with clams needs a handful of salt. Even the pyrotechnic dessert—tableside flambéed bananas and peaches—won’t help dull the pain in your wallet.
|Venue name:||Antica Venezia||Contact:|
396 West St
|Cross street:||at 10th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu 5–11pm; Fri, Sat 5pm–midnight; Sun 3–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq|
|Price:||Average main course: $20. AmEx, MC, V|